Quickdraws stolen off overboard at Smith

Ryan Palo wrote:Solid understanding going on here.

But didn't you see? He follows 5.12b. Not quite on my level of belaying 5.14d though

Matthew D. Black wrote: haha good find indeed =] well if there is no such thing as a pink point in sport climbing fair enough. You all know what i meant.... and What I meant is I like to place draws on a route and then clip the rope over just clipping the rope on pre placed draws. Obviously if the route is far beyond my reach, by all means have the draws hanging and let me climb. Dang guys.. I never boasted I'm a strong climber or making fun of other people for not climbing 5.12 and up nor am I judging anyone so thanks for getting that done and showing your true spirit.

Come on man, you were asking for it. Right now you care about redpoints and pinkpoints, but come back in a couple years when you're a little more seasoned. 99% of 5.12+ climbers don't care about hanging draws or permas because at that difficulty the movement and difficulty is all the matters in sport climbing.

Matthew D. Black wrote: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinkp…

Just stop. The fact you linked to an article that only discusses pinkpoints WRT to sport climbs and not trad climbs is showing your gumbyness

Theres a few people here who need to harden the fuck up. Hope the guy gets his draws back..

redlude97 wrote: 99% of 5.12+ climbers don't care about hanging draws or permas because at that difficulty the movement and difficulty is all the matters in sport climbing.

It goes beyond that. Trad protections are often where they're possible, bolts on sport routes are where they are "best". Many hard routes are bolted w/ pre-placed draws in mind, as this allows greater freedom/safety. For example: placing a bolt higher above a ledge where you can have an extended runner to reduce rope drag while still allowing a safe fall). In trad climbing if available, you can use a lower piece to protect a couple moves to a more optimal placement and then back clean. In sport climbing, I'm sure traddies would flip out seeing 2 bolts a couple feet apart.

redlude97 wrote: Just stop. The fact you linked to an article that only discusses pinkpoints WRT to sport climbs and not trad climbs is showing your gumbyness

But I saw it on Wikipedia, it must be true.

Jake Jones wrote: It does not. Thinking that you can redpoint and flash the same route does.

Sure you can. Climb it once, it's a flash. Go back up it again, it's a redpoint, right?

redlude97 wrote: at that difficulty the movement and difficulty is all the matters in sport climbing.

I also like being outside in the natural world, enjoy the view, enjoy good company...

Mark E Dixon wrote: I also like being outside in the natural world, enjoy the view, enjoy good company...

liar. no one goes sportclimbing for the natural scenery. The other type...probably

redlude97 wrote: liar. no one goes sportclimbing for the natural scenery.

My standards for natural scenery are pretty low

I think most climbers expect to hang their own draws on @12+ and down, except in certain areas or the occasional "necessary" placement?.

I'd also add the following to Josh Janes' list

If you bail, show some style and leave a biner or a draw, NOT a rapid link.
Links get in the way of subsequent climbers trying to clip and can be a PITA to remove.

Mark E Dixon wrote: My standards for natural scenery are pretty low

no one believes you aren't staring at their sports bras, that fern isn't really that interesting ;)

Big Glue in's are great for bailing fyi, no bail biners necessary. Hooray blue mountains, OZ!

Colin Brochard wrote:Big Glue in's are great for bailing fyi, no bail biners necessary. Hooray blue mountains, OZ!

No no no no no no !!!!!
I hope you're joking...

Colin Brochard wrote:Big Glue in's are great for bailing fyi, no bail biners necessary. Hooray blue mountains, OZ!

I usually just TR through the crux glue-ins

GumbyGumbyGumby wrote: well if there is no such thing as a pink point in sport climbing fair enough.

Damn, I shoulda seen this coming when it went from pussypoint to pinkpoint!

Fixed draws on an 11C at Smith?

Booty. That shit ain't even steep.

gdavis has a point. i have never been there so its ...

BillS wrote: You really need to inflate your tick list a bit before posting shit like this, bro. ...

A personal attack...nice, out of context and meaningless. Where I am with my personal efforts is and is not posted on this site. Most of what I do on-sight is in the relatively easy range. In fact I have way more experience developing my local moderates than I do sport climbing very hard routes. Again I say your personal attack is way off base and for the record I am not, nor will I ever be your "Bro". I hope for karmic reasons you run your mouth in public the same way you do here. nice job