Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Zeke's Wall
|
Cheeky Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Flow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Leanne's Ledges S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Mortal Coil T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Pigs Can Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Prelude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Ryan's Corner T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Suffering Bagpipes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Eric Hirst, Fitz Cahall, Oct 1, 2008, assisted by Erik Neumann and others |
| Page Views: | 2,687 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Hirst on Sep 19, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary closure on weekdays
Details
6/22/16 Update: Access to the Gold Bar Boulders, Zekes Wall, and Lake Isabel is temporary closed on weekdays to ensure public safety during road work operations for the Dyno timber sale. Access is available Saturday and Sunday. Check back for updates.
While Zekes Wall is on USFS land, access is across State DNR land.
Summer 2016 Notice: Timber contractors with DNR have began operations to improve the road for an upcoming timber harvest 2016-2018. Stay away from all road work sites and timber activities and respect any temporary closures for public safety.
In 2014, WA DNR purchased the Gold Bar bouldering area from Manke Timber. Pedestrian access up the road to access Zekes is permitted. Please remember to never block gates with your car. Display your Discovery Pass and yield and be respectful with DNR staff and contractors when they are on site. WCC, Access Fund and our partners are actively working with DNR on planning and stewardship efforts. Stay posted at washingtonclimbers.org.
While Zekes Wall is on USFS land, access is across State DNR land.
Summer 2016 Notice: Timber contractors with DNR have began operations to improve the road for an upcoming timber harvest 2016-2018. Stay away from all road work sites and timber activities and respect any temporary closures for public safety.
In 2014, WA DNR purchased the Gold Bar bouldering area from Manke Timber. Pedestrian access up the road to access Zekes is permitted. Please remember to never block gates with your car. Display your Discovery Pass and yield and be respectful with DNR staff and contractors when they are on site. WCC, Access Fund and our partners are actively working with DNR on planning and stewardship efforts. Stay posted at washingtonclimbers.org.
Description
5-6 pitches, mostly bolted. Weaves an unlikely path of least resistance up through some stunning terrain. Protection is generally good to excellent throughout, and was well tested on many occasions before the final successful ascent. There is some brittle rock; helmets and common sense advised.
The first two pitches make for one of Zekes' mellower outings, and are easily linkable as a nice long warmup pitch by anyone thinking of going further.
After that, it gets hard. Although I've managed a handful of 5.12- sport routes, I had to dig deep to free this one, and lean hard on some amazing and patient partners. The most useful bit of beta I can offer based on my experience is to take advantage of the comfortable ledges and the winding geometry, which makes it very easy to lower a bight of rope down to the second and haul a pack up pitches 3 and 4. There's basically no reason not to start pitch 5 fully hydrated and arguably fresh.
Pick a cool day and go for it.
Pitch overview:
p1 5.10c Bolted slabby face with gear needed in easier upper section.
p2 5.10a/b Straight up short crack, clip bolt and step R to ledge. Easily linked with p1.
p3 5.11d Follow bolts up and L (5.11+), to reach huge roof then undercling/jam (5.11-) back R to ledge below huger roof. Short pitch, easy to haul pack.
p4 5.12a LFC to crux undercling (gear) out roof. Then bolts to the anchor. Short pitch, easy to haul pack.
p5 5.11c/d Bolts up and L with increasing exposure. (See descent notes; you won't be able to rap the route if you do this pitch.)
p6 5.11a/b Bolts up short clean dihedral to top.
Descent: a single 60m rope will easily get you down from any point up to top of p4, but a 70m rope is nicer if you do the whole route.
From top of p4, rap the route.
From top of p6, either bushwhack off R, or:
(1) Rap straight down to top of p5, 20m. (DON'T GO LOWER, even with 2 ropes, unless you at least clip the p5 anchor as a directional. It's a steep wall.)
(2) Rap straight down into the void (autoblock recommended, have your daisy ready). Bounce to reach Fixe rings in a giant triangular cutout halfway down the spectacular white headwall, 20m.
(3) Rap to wide open slab, then angle gently R (toward the base of the route) to reach final set of rings on a small slab between brushy ledges on far R edge of the big slab, 30m. (Variation: with 70m rope or a bit of scrambling, it's also possible to reach the top of p1 from here. This may be a safer choice if you're not sure your single 60m will reach the final rings.)
(4) Rap bushy, somewhat loose, terrain to ground, angling R toward start of climb, 30m.
The first two pitches make for one of Zekes' mellower outings, and are easily linkable as a nice long warmup pitch by anyone thinking of going further.
After that, it gets hard. Although I've managed a handful of 5.12- sport routes, I had to dig deep to free this one, and lean hard on some amazing and patient partners. The most useful bit of beta I can offer based on my experience is to take advantage of the comfortable ledges and the winding geometry, which makes it very easy to lower a bight of rope down to the second and haul a pack up pitches 3 and 4. There's basically no reason not to start pitch 5 fully hydrated and arguably fresh.
Pick a cool day and go for it.
Pitch overview:
p1 5.10c Bolted slabby face with gear needed in easier upper section.
p2 5.10a/b Straight up short crack, clip bolt and step R to ledge. Easily linked with p1.
p3 5.11d Follow bolts up and L (5.11+), to reach huge roof then undercling/jam (5.11-) back R to ledge below huger roof. Short pitch, easy to haul pack.
p4 5.12a LFC to crux undercling (gear) out roof. Then bolts to the anchor. Short pitch, easy to haul pack.
p5 5.11c/d Bolts up and L with increasing exposure. (See descent notes; you won't be able to rap the route if you do this pitch.)
p6 5.11a/b Bolts up short clean dihedral to top.
Descent: a single 60m rope will easily get you down from any point up to top of p4, but a 70m rope is nicer if you do the whole route.
From top of p4, rap the route.
From top of p6, either bushwhack off R, or:
(1) Rap straight down to top of p5, 20m. (DON'T GO LOWER, even with 2 ropes, unless you at least clip the p5 anchor as a directional. It's a steep wall.)
(2) Rap straight down into the void (autoblock recommended, have your daisy ready). Bounce to reach Fixe rings in a giant triangular cutout halfway down the spectacular white headwall, 20m.
(3) Rap to wide open slab, then angle gently R (toward the base of the route) to reach final set of rings on a small slab between brushy ledges on far R edge of the big slab, 30m. (Variation: with 70m rope or a bit of scrambling, it's also possible to reach the top of p1 from here. This may be a safer choice if you're not sure your single 60m will reach the final rings.)
(4) Rap bushy, somewhat loose, terrain to ground, angling R toward start of climb, 30m.
Location
From the waterfall/creek at the base of Flow, cut straight back into forest, then traverse E (climber's R) around the base and up a very rough trail (partially blocked by blowdowns as of spring 2010) for ~10 minutes until you reach a ripply bolted slab. Now look up. See the undercling crux on P4? You're here. In spring or early summer, you can continue to bash up through the woods for another 5 minutes to reach an idyllic mossy spring flowing from the cliff wall. Otherwise, set your pack a little uphill from the base and start climbing.
2 Comments