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best techy vertical climbs at Rumney?

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

Next to Little Big Man at main cliff, there is the ever elusive Ali Babbler as well. (5.11c)

caesar.salad · · earth · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 75
Phil S wrote:Since it hasn't been mentioned, I'll throw in Machine Head even though only the first half of the route is techy/vertical. Despite its brevity, it has some of the nicest technical bits of climbing I've encountered at Rumney.
What's the second half like?
Phil lip · · New Hampshire · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170
caesar.salad wrote: What's the second half like?
The techy bit deposits you straight into steep jugs topped off by the "dreaded" mantle. Although I didn't find much dread in it.
caesar.salad · · earth · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 75

Bump from the crypt. RP'd fucking the dog on Saturday. Next project is captain fingers. So much fun. Great ideas guys. Love the technical routes so much.

Harrison Harb · · Portland · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 145

Know Ethics has got to be the best 5.10 at Rumney!!!!! A techie's dream.

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
Phil S wrote: The techy bit deposits you straight into steep jugs topped off by the "dreaded" mantle. Although I didn't find much dread in it.
Phil didnt yo say the mantle on pulse was easy too? It bruised my rib.
Sagan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Blueballs at Christmas is exhilarating.

caesar.salad · · earth · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 75
Sagan wrote:Blueballs at Christmas is exhilarating.
That was actually my first 11 redpoint (though on toprope, so it doesn't really count).
Phil lip · · New Hampshire · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170
Eli Buzzell wrote: Phil didnt yo say the mantle on pulse was easy too? It bruised my rib.
Ouch...Oh no, I've used many words to describe that mantle (mostly expletives), but "easy" is not one of them. I don't think I was able to make it happen that way, so I opted for less heinous, and much more enjoyable beta, sans mantle.
Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
Sagan wrote:Blueballs at Christmas is exhilarating.
This is one of the few Rumney trad routes that I'm not sure I actually want to lead...
Sagan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Eli, the first time I lead it it all went well. The seconded time I lead it I fell at the top. Luckily my belayer jumped off a rock at the bottom and got the slack in so I dint brake my legs off. A green C3 placed poorly in a horizontal saved the day.

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
Sagan wrote:Eli, the first time I lead it it all went well. The seconded time I lead it I fell at the top. Luckily my belayer jumped off a rock at the bottom and got the slack in so I dint brake my legs off. A green C3 placed poorly in a horizontal saved the day.
I'm probably not going to try to onsight it if I do go for the lead. License to Ill however, that looks like it would go reasonably.
S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

To add to the already-long list of possibilities -
Captain Fingers, Corporal Punishment, SOS,
Tropicana P1 & P2, Buried Treasure,
and, ta-da, Groupie Fantasy @Waimea.
It is spicy and I have no idea how good those 20 year old bolts are these days.

I am sure there are more worthy 'techie' routes in the .10 - .11 range, esp up in the NW Territories area.

Derek Jf · · Northeast · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 335
caesar.salad wrote:Bump from the crypt. RP'd fucking the dog on Saturday. Next project is captain fingers. So much fun. Great ideas guys. Love the technical routes so much.
Nice man!

Captain fingers is so tenuous, kudos for wantin it! Have you done Apocolypse yet? That upper face is about as tech a face climb on an 11 as any. Have you done Black Mamba yet too? Both would be good style for you after you've finished The Dog...
caesar.salad · · earth · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 75
Derek Jf wrote: Nice man! Captain fingers is so tenuous, kudos for wantin it! Have you done Apocolypse yet? That upper face is about as tech a face climb on an 11 as any. Have you done Black Mamba yet too? Both would be good style for you after you've finished The Dog...
Haven't done either of those yet. I have a couple weeks of performance phase left, so I'll give them a go.

Edit: Derek, I think I met you at Jimmy cliff left on Saturday. My gf and I were on Easter Squall.
Matt Levine · · Portsmouth, NH · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 110

+1 for Apocalypse Later, the top section has some of the techiest moves I've done at Rumney

Greg Pouliot · · Rumney NH · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 90

Recently got on prime climb up at orange crush. Really liked it as far as techy, balancey climbs go. A lot about body position and getting the holds just right.

Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 36

Ten of Spades (10c) at New Wave is a very technical route, especially the last 1/3.

Matt Wilson · · Vermont, USA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 316

Egg McMeadows (5.9+/10a) is a fun one, and a good warm up for 10's

Derek Jf · · Northeast · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 335
caesar.salad wrote: Haven't done either of those yet. I have a couple weeks of performance phase left, so I'll give them a go. Edit: Derek, I think I met you at Jimmy cliff left on Saturday. My gf and I were on Easter Squall.
This is true! Good meeting you guys
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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