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Ojo (del Diablo)
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.6 from 10
votes
Routes in Top of the Grotto (Ojo and Evil Paradise Sectors )
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Black Mass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Demon Lung S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Friend of the Devil T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hidden Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Prison, Babe T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Running with the Devil S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sweet Anne Marie S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sympathy for the Devil S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Aaron Miller, 2004 With Peter Steadman & Clay Clarke |
| Page Views: | 1,394 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Aug 15, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Very difficult down low with little to nothing for the feet and sidepulls for your hands. Then take a nap. Again on the upper wall more featured rock but few good holds in a corner gets you to the anchor.
I recomend Z-clipping at the anchor since the last bolt and the anchor are so close it is a pain to clip regularly and your waist is still below the last bolt anyway when you clip the anchor.
Additional description from Aaron Miller the FA: Fun and tricky climbing through some unique features, this route has two separate crux sections separated by some easier terrain. The fact that the route is broken by a rest-section does not mean you can let your guard down, the top moves are challenging and excellent on beautiful rock.
Original Online guide description from Rick Bradshaw: At least one individual has had his eye on this piece of rock for a while. A crucial hand hold popped off on an early ascent, turning the moves past the first bolt into a bit of a boulder problem, requiring an attentive belayer. A much needed no hands rest breaks up the sustained climbing on the lower and the upper sections.The best sport route of its grade at Diablo (well, it's the only 12- sport route at Diablo --as of 2004--, but it's really good).
I recomend Z-clipping at the anchor since the last bolt and the anchor are so close it is a pain to clip regularly and your waist is still below the last bolt anyway when you clip the anchor.
Additional description from Aaron Miller the FA: Fun and tricky climbing through some unique features, this route has two separate crux sections separated by some easier terrain. The fact that the route is broken by a rest-section does not mean you can let your guard down, the top moves are challenging and excellent on beautiful rock.
Original Online guide description from Rick Bradshaw: At least one individual has had his eye on this piece of rock for a while. A crucial hand hold popped off on an early ascent, turning the moves past the first bolt into a bit of a boulder problem, requiring an attentive belayer. A much needed no hands rest breaks up the sustained climbing on the lower and the upper sections.The best sport route of its grade at Diablo (well, it's the only 12- sport route at Diablo --as of 2004--, but it's really good).
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