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new cams?

Top Rope Hero · · Was Estes Park, now homeless · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,150

Fuuuuuuuuuuugg. And I JUUUUST finished outfitting my 7 rack.

Boss? Can I have some OT please...?

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

viper scale... i would say that having it in a protected housing will limit the aging from environmental and UV to the point that it will have the same life span. whatever BD says when they come out is what I would go by. (obviously)

the biggest concern i would have is over the weight shed in the lobes would lead to more smashing bending and tweaking the lobes of the cams. That's where they are going to wear out if you actually fall on your cams.

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270
kalockwood wrote:It appears from the picture that the 0.3, #5, and #6 will not be available in the new design? Maybe the forging tool cost was not justified for the large sizes. Not sure why they would exclude the 0.3. The dyneema core is a cool idea and with UV and abrasion protection, I don't see an issue. I'm sure the BD guys did plenty of fatigue testing on dyneema. Maybe accelerated aging w/mechanical testing too.
The blue x4 is awesome, and I think BD overvalues the double axled x4s, so they may have decided they didn't need to go down to that size (enough overlap). Having my blue x4 I probably won't get a c4 in that size, but I'm sure it's not everyone's opinion.
Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
jetforcerecall.com/

Black Diamond is issuing a voluntary recall for all JetForce avalanche airbag packs due to a required firmware update. There have been no accidents involving JetForce, but we have determined that a recall is necessary, and are committed to updating the firmware of affected units quickly and at no cost to our users. If you own a JetForce pack, please visit jetforcerecall.com for more information and instructions.

Hope, we will never witness Black Diamonds camalots, carabiners, pitons, quickdraws, slings, belay devices, tents, ascenders, and hooks recalls due to mandatory firmware updates.
Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 966

I have very little to add but this needs to be on my Forum Threads your following
Do we know that current cams are US made yet?

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

when talking to the rep and handling the new UL cam, I was assured that ALL climbing Hardgoods are made in USA now. see what happens i suppose

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

As far as I remember, I've heard a rumor that BD produce and assemble everything in the U.S. except anodizing. It sounds really strange - hot forge and polish details in U.S., send 'em to China, anodize, send 'em to U.S., assemble.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

a cam thats not seem much use may well last 20-30 years with only sling replacements ...

some companies such as petzl recommend getting rid of soft goods, including dyneema, after 10 years regardless of use

now the question is what is the lifespan of these cams? .... if they arent used only occasionally will the last 10-20 years?

or do you throw em out after so many years

does the dyneema core last as long as the metal in the current camalots?

hmmmmmm

;)

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525
bearbreeder wrote:a cam thats not seem much use may well last 20-30 years with only sling replacements ... some companies such as petzl recommend getting rid of soft goods, including dyneema, after 10 years regardless of use now the question is what is the lifespan of these cams? .... if they arent used only occasionally will the last 10-20 years? or do you throw em out after so many years does the dyneema core last as long as the metal in the current camalots? hmmmmmm ;)
Maybe you can send it in and they will replace the dyneema core just like they can replace the sling.

But who am I kidding..
Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

Easton ALU in SLC anodizes all BD gear that is made in SLC which will now be... all of it

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188
nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525
Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78

New friends from Wild Country also coming out, with double axle.
outside.co.uk/latest/news/T…

Will we now have real competition in the cam market?

a.l. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 5
Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:Easton ALU in SLC anodizes all BD gear that is made in SLC which will now be... all of it
Once upon a time, some BD employees suggested expanding and moving the factory out of that worn out, inefficient grocery store strip mall on 3900 south and over to the the SLC west side, right next to the warehouse.

"Oh no"" the brass said, "Making products in the U.S. is a dead end..gotta get to China baby.."

Millions of $$ flushed.

Welcome back.
nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525
mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885

Most curious about the new WC Friends. Looks like the best combo of refinements AND it looks like standardized Color Schemes now!

BD ULs could be interesting but need to learn more about the Dyneema etc.

runout · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

Shit. There goes my paycheck.

Brandon S · · Weehawken, NJ · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 1
kalockwood wrote:It appears from the picture that the 0.3, #5, and #6 will not be available in the new design? Maybe the forging tool cost was not justified for the large sizes. Not sure why they would exclude the 0.3. The dyneema core is a cool idea and with UV and abrasion protection, I don't see an issue. I'm sure the BD guys did plenty of fatigue testing on dyneema. Maybe accelerated aging w/mechanical testing too.
Could these cams have a larger range than the old C4s so they can exclude the 0.3? I'm not saying the new 0.2 and 0.4 cover the 0.2-0.3-0.4, but maybe they all have a larger range and could afford to get rid of one number and someone at BD doesnt like Blue.
kalockwood · · SLC, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 342
Brandon S wrote: Could these cams have a larger range than the old C4s so they can exclude the 0.3? I'm not saying the new 0.2 and 0.4 cover the 0.2-0.3-0.4, but maybe they all have a larger range and could afford to get rid of one number and someone at BD doesnt like Blue.
I talked to some BD guys at Maple last weekend and they said the 0.3 was dropped because the weight savings were not large enough to justify the cost increase.
nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

The new WC Friends have "hollow axle" to save weight. Seems like the last component I'd really be hoping to cut corners on, but I guess..
Here's comparisons between the lobes on WC Friends, C4s (current gen), and Dragons (current gen).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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