Gear anchor on a sport climb??

Hello folks,

Do you think it's silly to develop a sport climb that tops out a formation and has no bolted anchor, requiring the leader to bring some cams to build a gear anchor? There is a very mellow walk off, however there are fairy shrimp on top that I'd hate to see impacted. Are they a good enough reason in your opinion to install a bolted anchor? Or would you put in a bolted anchor even if there weren't fairy shrimp?

Thanks everyone,

Shelton

Shelton, I'm afraid you're gonna catch hell for suggesting/requiring a gear anchor on a sport climb, no matter the reason. If what you want to do is safeguard the fairy shrimp, best figure out a way to do that while you establish a bolt anchor.

Good on ya for being concerned about those little guys. Not to rain on your parade, but might the best course of all be not to develop this route at all? Just a thought...

Lynn Evenson wrote:Shelton, I'm afraid you're gonna catch hell for suggesting/requiring a gear anchor on a sport climb, no matter the reason.

How do you think I could avoid catching hell? Bolt it on lead and call it a trad climb? I ask this as more of a thought experiment than anything else.

Lynn Evenson wrote: might the best course of all be not to develop this route at all? Just a thought...

I have definitely considered that. I've been struggling with whether I can even bring myself to sink bolts in a rock with so many good crack around. But the line is inspiring. Not to say that it isn't great as a top rope.

J Marsella wrote:or put the anchor bolts low enough below the top-out that it would not worth going up there and messin' (unintentionally) with the skrimps.

This was something I had considered. There is actually a small ledge less than 2 body lengths below the topout and after all the hard climbing, inaccessible from the top without 5th classing down, that would provide a good stance to clip anchors from.

Thanks for the input y'all

Shelton Hatfield wrote: I have definitely considered that. I've been struggling with whether I can even bring myself to sink bolts in a rock with so many good crack around.

I'm confused, i thought it was a sport climb? If there just happens to be a crack at the top but the rest is unprotectable with gear, then just put in an anchor, even if it is near a crack. It just doesn't make sense for this contrivance of ethics, especially when there are literally thousands of trad routes with bolted anchors for convenience.

redlude97 wrote: I'm confused, i thought it was a sport climb? If there just happens to be a crack at the top but the rest is unprotectable with gear, then just put in an anchor, even if it is near a crack. It just doesn't make sense for this contrivance of ethics, especially when there are literally thousands of trad routes with bolted anchors for convenience.

Sorry. To clarify, I meant so many good cracks around Colorado. The route can not be protected without bolts. Yes, I am getting caught up in an ethical whirlpool. Thanks for your input.

Shelton Hatfield wrote:Hello folks, Do you think it's silly to develop a sport climb that tops out a formation and has no bolted anchor...?

Yes.

Put the anchor low enough that you have to rap/lower off and don't top out if you are worried about impacts to the top. This also means low enough that you can't reach them from the top to top rope too or people will walk up and TR it.

Shelton Hatfield wrote: Do you think it's silly to develop a sport climb that tops out a formation and has no bolted anchor, requiring the leader to bring some cams to build a gear anchor? Shelton

It's not the ideal situation IMO but I've done that exact thing on a few routes at Turkey Rock. A perfect crack at the top with an easy scramble off so I decided to forego the anchor bolts. Depends on the established area ethic obviously, but see what other locals say. What area is it?

edit: Turkey Rock is kind of a different animal when it comes to bolted anchors near cracks. At every other area where I've put up routes, I'll put in anchors if I think the route will see a decent amount of traffic.

A well placed sport anchor will hvae the smallest impact on the rock above. If you put the bolts up minus the anchors then the last guy will have to walk off with his gear. Also If there is a good crack at the top and the route is good bolts or no people will TR it.

Thank you everyone for your individual perspectives. Precisely what I was hoping to gain.

Glenn Schuler wrote: Depends on the established area ethic obviously, but see what other locals say. What area is it?

The climb is out near Red Feather Lakes. There are no etablished routes at this particular formation except for a few cracks that I've climbed. At many new crags here in CO the ethics for new routing seem to be lax, but I don't necessarily want to perpetuate that trend. It does make sense that in this particular circumstance anchor bolts will likely be less impactful than a gear anchor and walk off.