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BBQ
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Jul 12, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 554
Stupid Question: A serious answer would be appreciated. I noticed that many of the easier Flatirons routes require a "standard Flatirons rack". What exactly should you bring along if I was to lead some of the 5.4-5.6 routes. Just don't want to leave out anything crucial and it would be great to leave behind extra weight that I don't need. Thanks!
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Brendan Magee
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Jul 12, 2015
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Parker, CO
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 0
I'll bring one set of cams from 0.3 to 3, a set of nuts, and slings. I never need it all because gear placements are few and far between.
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BBQ
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Jul 12, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 554
Thanks, Brendan. Much appreciated.
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will ar
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Jul 12, 2015
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Vermont
· Joined Jan 2010
· Points: 290
A pair of running shoes. To give you a more serious answer Brendan's recommendation is probably more than adequate. I think you're more likely to place gear on the smaller end of that range, but it's been many years since I've climbed there. Keep in mind there aren't many opportunities to place gear. Are you planning on pitching it out or simul-climbing most of the routes?
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Paul-B
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Jul 12, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2011
· Points: 115
I would leave a majority of those cams at home. Definitely the 2 and 3, especially if you are concerned about weight. When I place gear in the flatirons I always feel comfortable with just nuts, a few tricams and maybe a few finger sized cams. You might find a place for a 2 or 3, but they are few and far between, and rarely actually needed.
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BBQ
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Jul 12, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 554
Thanks for the info, folks. We'll probably do something like Fandango or the East Standard Route. I know people solo those things all the time but I am taking my wife with me and she will not let me leave the ground without a rope and gear. What would be the best route to do for first time visitors? Something without a long complicated hike would be great. We don't care if we have to wait in line.
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Dankasaurus
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Jul 12, 2015
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Lyons, CO
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 85
Fandango is sweet and probably won't have a line like Standard route. Starting lower on the face is most fun. Personally I enjoy having a piece or two of larger gear. Sometimes I bring a big ol hex.
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Nicholas Patterson
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Jul 12, 2015
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Sheridan, WY
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 55
pretty sure you get like a thousand points for climbing it completely passive. big hex cow bells add a bonus five hundred points. there are more places for gear than first glance. plenty of holes and horns to tie off. flatirons will take the full range of gear. kind of just depends on your party's comfort at rope length pitches of five-6. friends don't let friends pitch out the ridge. short rope it in style and let the second lead off (down climb) each tooth.
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Lynn Evenson
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Jul 12, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2015
· Points: 60
Great idea, Nick! B., if there's a longer line than you like, you can also start a bit right of the Standard Route. The crux is very definitely the first 20 feet or so, but have faith and keep your eyes open. Be sure your wife tells you when the halfway mark goes through her hands, and start looking for anchors. Don't fall into the trap of "gotta use up the whole rope!" This 'route' also lets you step off the North Arete onto the trail if the crowds are too crazy. My standard Flatiron rack? A few TriCams, a few stoppers, couple of hand-size somethings, 4-5 slings, 3-4 free biners. Have fun!
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Paul-B
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Jul 13, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2011
· Points: 115
Well, I'll change my stance a bit and say Fandango is one of the few routes you will find cams particularly useful, and especially a few on the larger size. Certainly you could do it without, but that dihedral will eat larger cams. Also, I like to have a 2 or 3 for the belay at the very top of the dihedral. I've done both those routes with my wife. I solo, she follows on a rope. Usually I throw in a piece or two if there is potential for swing if she falls.
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