The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

anybody seen three little pigs or anything else on pikes lately

Hiked up to dream weaver yesterday. No longer in i think. the first constiction had a big hole and flowing water.

climbed dreamweaver this am. it's a series of dry or dripping bottlenecks linked by snow ramps. most of the bottle necks have chockstones of very reasonable size that can be passed straight on or around. i thought the rock was all manageable, lower 5th class for the most part. but i was wearing strap crampons on trail runners which brings the difficulty down a few notches. i remember one brief section that resembled mixed climbing with a couple of ice steps. some landings were loose rubble and had to be travelled delicately. the snow ramps felt quite solid. all in all, pleasant climbing. the narrow section of the loft, skier's left/climber's right is down climbable but probably not for long, lotta running water not far below

which season are best to go

Has anyone seen the condition of the cornices on the Y couloirs on Ypsilon? Thanks

bobdelon wrote:which season are best to go

When it's in. Typically its a spring climb (sometimes fall) so you don't get avalanched on, but it changes from season to season.

You can find out all that info on the route page.

mountainproject.com/v/dream…

climbinglife.com/ice-and-mi…

Brice W wrote:Has anyone seen the condition of the cornices on the Y couloirs on Ypsilon? Thanks

I haven't been yet (going in two weeks), but driving of TRR yesterday, it looked like most of the similar aspect ridges still had descent cornices hanging on. Take that with a giant grain of salt, of course.

Matthew E wrote: I haven't been yet (going in two weeks), but driving of TRR yesterday, it looked like most of the similar aspect ridges still had descent cornices hanging on. Take that with a giant grain of salt, of course.

There is a recent report here: 14ers.com/php14ers/peakstat…

There's a terrifying bastard pulling away above the left branch of Y. Don't think I'd mess with that one. The right branch cornice was rather cozy comparatively.

Anybody know the conditions of Mt Sneffels Snake Couloir?
Thinking of giving it a go this weekend.

Or is going up one of the lesser technical routes a better/safer option at this point in the season?

Thanks for any input.

Ryan Marsters wrote: There's a terrifying bastard pulling away above the left branch of Y. Don't think I'd mess with that one. The right branch cornice was rather cozy comparatively.

Great second picture. From your description I take it you did the right branch? How was the choke? Overall conditions?

Cuba wrote:Anybody know the conditions of Mt Sneffels Snake Couloir? Thinking of giving it a go this weekend. Or is going up one of the lesser technical routes a better/safer option at this point in the season? Thanks for any input.

Went up to climb it two days ago...the constriction/turn is melted out.

James Kersey wrote: Great second picture. From your description I take it you did the right branch? How was the choke? Overall conditions?

Bit late, but the ice was out. Little bit hanging around but not supportive. The standard rock bypass (5.4) was totally dry.

Worse than it looks:


Correct 5.4 start (5.4 is right after turning the corner). First pitch is around 50-60 ft with drag. Second pitch (5.easy, depending on route finding) to the ledge is about 200 ft.

Gretchen 81 wrote: Went up to climb it two days ago...the constriction/turn is melted out.

Thanks Gretchen 81!

After talking to a local in one of the Durango mountain shops who said the conditions in the Snake would most likely include soft snow with lotsa postholing, i opted for the Southwest Ridge.
After summiting, I descended down thru the V-notch to the standard route. I did take a look down into the Snake Couloir from the top and it did appear all melted out from what I could see.

The good:

The left branch of the N Couloirs on Pacific Peak currently (as of 7/9) has hundreds of feet of sweet alpine ice! Some of it is getting pretty thin, but there are still many great sticks to be had!

Dan cruising sweet ice soon after branching off of the main couloir.

Ice! In July with t-shirts....

The bad:

There are two melted out steps and a final 50' section made up of the chossiest rock ever that you must navigate. Not very hard, but very scary as absolutely nothing is well attached. Don't bother with a rope as there is no gear to be had.

Dan about to embark on his journey through choss nearing the top of Pacific Peak.

Great mud sticks though!

Eric Klammer wrote:The good: The left branch of the N Couloirs on Pacific Peak currently (as of 7/9) has hundreds of feet of sweet alpine ice! Some of it is getting pretty thin, but there are still many great sticks to be had! The bad: There are two melted out steps and a final 50' section made up of the chossiest rock ever that you must navigate. Not very hard, but very scary as absolutely nothing is well attached. Don't bother with a rope as there is no gear to be had.

Looks rad, how did the hawaii couloirs look on the NE face below pacific tarn? Looking to do a bike to ski this weekend up there.

Couloirs still look nice and fat! Definitely looking good for a ski descent! With the snowfield a little below the summit you could almost ski summit to valley with a couple sections of talus/tundra crossings.