The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...
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Same folks? They clearly understand the fundamentals: strong, stable, redundant against errors in judgement. Could some details use cleaning up? Sure. But you could look at a lot of my anchors and ask why I didn't clean up all the details. (Answer: good enough, and I want to get climbing. I'm not the most patient person.) |
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Hmm, I guess me being somewhat new I don't settle for less than perfection which is good so I develop good habits early on. I'm also a perfectionist and a bit OCD. That's okay, I think that makes me a good climbing partner. :) |
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Joel, |
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I hope Joel never looks at my anchors... I don't think I could stand the embarrassment of being a focal point of this thread. Does that #1 have J. Jugs written on it? ;) |
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Who said the thread HAD to be about sketchiness? Half the damn thing is about bolting ethics among other crap. |
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Joel Allen wrote:Who said the thread HAD to be about sketchiness? Half the damn thing is about bolting ethics among other crap. I saw an anchor that yes, is bomber, but seemed odd to me. I posted it, I learned from it. Will I ever make an anchor like this at devils lake? No, but I came out with something I didn't previously know and could maybe be helpful down the road (though I doubt it). But then someone said that it's fine as long as their placements were solid.......... Sooooo I posted two pictures of some of their placements which were NOT fine from what I've learned. But then again maybe I don't have a clue based on these great replies. It was nothing against the people, who I never even met. Nobody's feels were hurt (except maybe mine). I'll shy away from the forums because someone with my superior lack of knowledge clearly doesn't belong. Cheers :)No Joel, don't go, you're misunderstanding us. We're just curious why you're busting these guys balls. I think we (all of us curious about your motivation) have all seen (maybe even done) stuff like (or worse) than this. I think we're all kinda thinking, "Yeah that's a little sketchy, but not that sketchy." Keep asking questions, but don't lead in with "This one is obviously strong enough but I find it a bit laughable. Some interesting tactics. Referring to the hitched together nuts. I'd consider it a 'cluster Fu&k'. :)" unless you're sure it's sketchy. "Hey guys, is this as sketchy as I think it is?" might be a better solution :-) |
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Joel Allen wrote:Hmm, I guess me being somewhat new I don't settle for less than perfection which is good so I develop good habits early on. I'm also a perfectionist and a bit OCD. That's okay, I think that makes me a good climbing partner. :)You clearly do not have a complete grasp of anchor building techniques but are more than willing to criticize an anchor you do not understand. There is no perfect anchor so being a perfectionist in this regard is a fools errand. Every anchor I have built over the last two decades has had some element of compromise. The key is starting with bomber placements and linking them to provide a margin of safety that is acceptable. |
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Joel Allen wrote: It was nothing against the people, who I never even met. Nobody's feels were hurt (except maybe mine). I'll shy away from the forums because someone with my superior lack of knowledge clearly doesn't belong. Cheers :)The purpose of this forum is to poke fun of peoples mistakes. You made the mistake of criticizing and laughing at an anchor that you didn't understand that turns out to be bomber. Ergo, your blunder became the clusterfuck and people poke fun of you. Seem fair to me. |
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With access to a full rack I don't one bit understand why one would choose to build an anchor this way. Also I cant think of a good reason to place gear badly on a top rope anchor then TR it the entire day (the two other pictures). I stand by what I said. Thanks for the input. Case closed. Move on. Peace ;) |
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Joel Allen wrote:With access to a full rack I don't one bit understand why one would choose to build an anchor this way. Also I cant think of a good reason to place gear badly on a top rope anchor then TR it the entire day (the two other pictures). I stand by what I said. Thanks for the input. Case closed. Move on. Peace ;)My point exactly you DON'T UNDERSTAND! Pretending you do just makes you look foolish. There is no excuse for any TR anchor to be built on sketchy placements building complicated anchors is a phase most climbers go through and not the same thing. I have a friend that always uses three lockers for TR anchors I use two neither of us is wrong and if an extra biner make him feel better who gives a shit. No one I have read condones poor placements or legitimately dangerous anchors. |
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I've never even built a top rope trad anchor. I'm just basing all this on a instructional video on Youtube: |
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Don't run your rope through the anchor chains - use your own gear. |
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@bigfeet I was being facetious lol |
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sorry, Mike-The #1 wasn't mine...I no longer have any single stem C4s. |
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Joel-you ok today Bro? I hope they all didn't hurt your feelings too much, that was not their intention. Please don't go! |
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Jon if you really like checking out some sketchy anchors try this website. |
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Non thumb loop is what I meant. |