Training for slab in the Daks

Hi all,

I'm looking for suggestions for a good place to train with my partner for climbing multi-pitch slab in the Daks - namely Gothics (this Fall.) I want to practice on something fairly easy so we can get a feel for slab, work on our technique without getting shut down and so I have some sense of what difficulty we can consider on Gothics in the Fall. Both the south and north faces of Gothics have several excellent and varied lines with hundreds of feet of slab at various difficulties. I am within a fairly easy drive (3hrs) to the New in WV as well as being not too far from Seneca at ~2.5 hours. I'm thinking a weekend or two on slab at either of those places would be a good place to start but most routes seem to be face and crack climbing, or what slab routes I can find here seem to be 5.9 and up. I would feel more comfortable starting 5.3-5.7 since I've not climbed much slab at all and my partner has even less experience than I do. Any suggestions? For training single pitches are fine. Thanks in advance.

Chapel Pond Slab, Poko-slab and Rogers slide should get you started

Slab climbing is sweet! Notth Carolina has some of the best slabs in the east, but I don't know how far the state line is from you. If that's close enough for a weekend, check out looking glass rock, stone depot, and pilot rock. For me, slabs are equal parts trusting your feet and boldness. If you can't find slabs you feel comfortable practicing on, try top roping easy routes with one or both hands behind your back or hold a tennis ball in each hand while you climb. You can always try doing easy boulders with no hands.

Don't know what you're looking to get on, but especially at easier grades, slabs are often sparsely protected, and being comfortable with long runouts is often just as important as having good technique. I've found highballing to help develop that headspace.

Perhaps Kaymoor Slabs Endless Wall, NRG?

I might give Kaymoor a try since it's close, albeit most of it pretty steep - might be worth a look next time down that way regardless. Thanks also to Mark for the NC info. I actually honeymooned in Boone and my wife and I climbed at a fun little crag (Holloway Mountain) up there on day 1 of our marriage! NC is a bit far for a weekend but I still have family down in Raleigh so maybe I will stop for a half-day somewhere next time I head down - good idea. Thanks also to Bill for the NY ideas - I've heard a lot about Chapel Pond, and Pok-o-Moonshine... maybe we should aim to tackle those this Fall and leave Gothics for next year - we'll have to think about it...

I would try Regular Route at Chapel Pond first. Go do Little Finger on Rogers Slide if RR goes well. Finally hit Poko. Do the Snake first. It's 5.4 but the first pitch is run out 5.4 slab. If you don't mind the unprotected crux of Snake go do Catharsis. Once you have these under your belt start checking out other routes in the areas of the above routes. Crane Mountain has some good slabs but run outs are everywhere. I did Bella Vista a couple weeks ago. The first bolt is 25 feet above the deck.

I think you will enjoy the slabs that the Dacks to offer.

Drive the 18 hours to Boulder ?

Just remember that there's a big difference between what "modern climbers" (for lack of a better term) call slab and the holdless, low angle smooth FRICTION climbing of NY/NH slabs.

I've been friction climbing longer than I care to admit, and I don't think there's any way to practice for it. You just have to do it. That's where the rare, well-protected routes like Little Finger at Rogers Rock come in. If you're not up to leading run-out slab, find someone to ropegun for you. It is SO much easier with a rope above you, and you can focus on balance and technique rather than fear.

If you're near south central pennsylvania (Lancaster area) Safe harbor has tons of great slabs to check out.

Go to NH, or NC, and toprope harder stuff on granite. You won't learn much about slab climbing on 5.7, nor on super grippy SE sandstone, but you'll learn a ton about slab climbing on 5.9-5.11 granite or gneiss.

Will S wrote:Go to NH, or NC, and toprope harder stuff on granite. You won't learn much about slab climbing on 5.7, nor on super grippy SE sandstone, but you'll learn a ton about slab climbing on 5.9-5.11 granite or gneiss.

I would rather learn about crazy run out slab climbing on 5.7 than 5.9.

Thanks again for all the input - much appreciated. Almost always impressed with the amount of good feedback on this site.

Greg Petliski wrote:Have you done the Eagle slide yet? Technically not a technical slide, though Im sure if you wander around you will hit 5th class stuff on it. It is a wonderful adventure though, you get to see the power of nature up close in Roaring brook, post Irene, before cruising up a gorgeous hunk of rock with great views of the great range behind you as you climb.

Maybe that's what we should do for starters Greg. No Eagle Slide - the only mountains I've been to in the Daks have been backpacking trips. No climbs yet, but Eagle Slide sounds like a good way to get into it. Maybe hit that on day 1 and see if we want to hit Gothics on day 2 or 3 or maybe the Trap Dike on Colden. You read my intentions right - I am more about the total experience than just the climbing, so this is good advice - appreciate it.

Hundreds of feet of multi-pitch slab...sounds like hell. Why would somebody intentionally subject themselves to this torture? :p

In all seriousness, I do enjoy the occasional technical slab on toprope, but leading them is terrifying.

Many places named are actually overkill when it comes to training for Dacks slabs. Someone said 5.9-5.11. On Gothics, expect the absolute HARDEST to be .10d on rock with superb friction. Therefore, the training recommended by Kirby is perhaps the most reasonable thus far

Bill Kirby wrote: Chapel Pond Slab, Poko-slab and Rogers slide should get you started

Chapel will make you wish you had just free soloed it afterwards

If there are decent boulders in your area seek the slabs among them and work them. Being on a 20 foot boulder with ground fall and a 30 or 35 foot run out on a slab climb require similar commitment and control. I have found the boulder work transfers well to an actual slab climb.

I'd do the Regular Route on Chapel Pond Slab. The 5.6 variation start to the right is fun and usually empty. From the belay on top of Bob's Knob, scramble right on the ledge for about 100' and finish with the sustained 5.6 crack traverse with an awesome view.