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Go to Squaredock!

Original Post
Peter Lewis · · Bridgton, ME · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 165

Squaredock Mountain is in western Maine about 8 miles south of Bethel, near Mosquito Pond, off Route 5 ( 44°17'21.79"N 70°47'30.34"W). It's a great cliff that has been developed over the last 15 years or so. In particular, if you are looking for nice 5.9 - 5.11 face climbing on friendly rock, The Critter Wall and The Planetarium Wall provide nine 30m pitches in this range. The Planetarium needs cleaning, but the Critter Wall is just about perfect, with four single-pitch (30m) 5.10 sport routes. Jerry Handren's new guidebook has good descriptions for the approach and the routes. Or email me and I'll send you the info (speterlewis@gmail.com). This is a beautiful, quiet, south-facing cliff. Get on it!

Thomas Stryker · · Chatham, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 250

I second this! The two pitch routes on the Planetarium Wall are superb. Vortex is a fun way to start too, then either finish above. 70 Meter Arete is excellent. I take a couple big-ish cams for what I call the Velvateen crack above the belay ledge, then rap off the oak tree at the top, to avoid the need for a 70 meter rope to lower off.

Great place if you can lead 5.10 sport!

Peter Lewis · · Bridgton, ME · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 165

Hi Tom. So right! Was there on Friday and the two pitches of Stargazer and the second pitch of The Right Stuff on the Planetarium Wall are pretty grubby. They're my routes, so I feel a certain civic responsibility to clean them up---I hope to go back up soon with the requisite brushes and a wrench. The first pitch of The Right Stuff (.10b) and Vortex (.11c) looked okay. All the routes on the Critter Wall are perfect (although I must say the start of Dave Kelly's little .10a on the far left, True Grit, is a total sandbag). Haven't done the 70m Arete, but hope to. Nice to know there's a way down with a shorter rope.

Thomas Stryker · · Chatham, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 250

Hi Peter ! I was lucky enough to climb those Planetarium Wall routes with my friend Juliet when the holds still had your drill dust in little piles on them ! Excellent captivating climbing with very little filler.

The Velvateen Crack is moss lined for your comfort....lol!

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

You guys are crazy..there's no climbing in maine !

Peter Lewis · · Bridgton, ME · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 165

Right, John! I'm totally delusional. It's the new meds. Nothing to see (or climb) here, citizens, so move along.... [wink]

Peter Lewis · · Bridgton, ME · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 165
Tom Stryker wrote:Hi Peter ! I was lucky enough to climb those Planetarium Wall routes with my friend Juliet when the holds still had your drill dust in little piles on them ! Excellent captivating climbing with very little filler. The Velvateen Crack is moss lined for your comfort....lol!
Nice! Thanks. We were overjoyed to find that piece of rock with nothing on it!
Chuck Drew · · Cape Elizabeth, ME · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 115

Hey Peter and Tom! I'm curious if Squaredock would be a good spring destination? Would it likely be dry? Thinking of heading there this Sunday for some early season rock :)

Peter Lewis · · Bridgton, ME · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 165
chuckdrew wrote: Hey Peter and Tom! I'm curious if Squaredock would be a good spring destination? Would it likely be dry? Thinking of heading there this Sunday for some early season rock :)

Hi Chuck. Squaredock is an awesome spring location. It gets blasted by the sun and dries quickly. You may well have to post-hole to get to the crag, but the rock will be warm and (hopefully) dry. We've had a pretty snowy winter and the snowpack is hanging around, but go anyway. I'd say that any projected temps of 45 or above will be just fine. Jerry's guide is spot on, but if you need any specific beta, just PM me. 

MattH · · CO / NM / ME · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,226

What's the access situation like these days? Any issues with the logging company? I didn't make it out this past summer but on my visit the previous one the access seemed tenuous. Fantastic climbing, though (like all the crags in this region).

Peter Lewis · · Bridgton, ME · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 165

We keep getting snow. So it will likely be postholing into the cliff, and then warm dry rock (if you pick your day). Very late spring around here.

Chuck Drew · · Cape Elizabeth, ME · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 115

haha, the postholing was absolutely heinous - there is a mushy 3.5 feet of snow our there. We bailed at the gate just past the gravel pit and scooted down to Jockey Cap.

Skis or snowshoes would make the approach much more reasonable. From the road, parts of the cliff looked dry, there were a few water streaks from the snowmelt above but plenty of climbable terrain.

Very excited to get out there soon!! Thanks for the beta!

Peter Lewis · · Bridgton, ME · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 165
chuckdrew wrote: haha, the postholing was absolutely heinous - there is a mushy 3.5 feet of snow our there. We bailed at the gate just past the gravel pit and scooted down to Jockey Cap.

Skis or snowshoes would make the approach much more reasonable. From the road, parts of the cliff looked dry, there were a few water streaks from the snowmelt above but plenty of climbable terrain.

Very excited to get out there soon!!

Wow, that's a lot of snow. I knew it was bad (my house is still buried, a few miles to the south). Spring is sure late this year!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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