Seeking Colorado BETA

Howdy Folks,

I’ll be headed to Colorado from Thursday through next Wednesday on a camping/climbing trip with my brothers. While myself and younger brother are both experienced rock/ice climbers my older brother hasn’t climbed much at all. He’s also coming from Hawaii so heading to 12,000' probably wouldn’t be best option strait out of Denver. Thinking of spending the night close to Boulder and maybe cruise a few of the classic Flatiron routes the next day. Some of my primary objectives are the following:

• I’d love to climb some slab (I’ve been to 11 mile canyon years ago and remember it being really nice)
• I’d like to mess around on some technically easier snow couliors and introduce by brother to general snow travel and climbing techniques.
• Preferably free camping with shorter approaches to camp and/or car camping. Good areas for drinking beer and chillin'
• Maybe a cool hike or two (probably will do Mt. Democrat)

I understand that this is pretty late in the season for climbing snow (or completely passed) but figured I try to poke around for some local beta. All in all, I’m looking for some nice moderate routes throughout the state with accessible camping close by to introduce my older brother to climbing. Will have a 4x4 so travel isn't a huge issue.

The indian peaks still have enough snow, as well does RMNP. We got hit with a ton of late storms. It is pretty warm though so get super early starts.

Flatirons bake like solar ovens by noon. Get sunrise starts. Really cool light just prior to sunrise too, so there's an incentive.

3rd Flatiron is closed due to raptor nesting

Weather has been sketchy here this year. Lots of rain and thunderstorms and some late season snow.

Not by any stretch of the imagination is Mt Democrat a cool hike, it's a crowded shit show to the top of a pile of rubble that exceeds an arbitrary threshold of 14,000 feet.

If you really want to do an easy 14er make the drive to San Luis or Handies, still crowded but much greater visual rewards.

As far as snow goes, Queensway Couloir on Apache Peak stays in through out the summer and you get the added benefit of hiking into one of the most beautiful cirques in the FRange.

11 mile is closed right now due to flooding.. Down south here it's been pretty much rain every afternoon/evening. Dumping right now

EDIT- Looks like 11 mile has re opened now

Thanks for the info guys. So I'm planning on heading out to the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area and would like to camp close to either Japser Peak or Apache Peak, and from what I've read I'll need to acquire a permit at the USFS office in Boulder. It looks like the Pawnee Campground is a good campground that is close to Brainard Lake, which is where the trailheads are located to access many of the peaks in the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area. Correct me if any of this sounds off...

Is there a suggested guidebook for the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area? Any other beta that would be useful?

Jonathan Dull wrote:Thanks for the info guys. So I'm planning on heading out to the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area and would like to camp close to either Japser Peak or Apache Peak, and from what I've read I'll need to acquire a permit at the USFS office in Boulder. It looks like the Pawnee Campground is a good campground that is close to Brainard Lake, which is where the trailheads are located to access many of the peaks in the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area. Correct me if any of this sounds off... Is there a suggested guidebook for the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area? Any other beta that would be useful?

http://www.amazon.com/Colorados-Indian-Peaks-Classic-Climbs/dp/1555914047/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1436362353&sr=8-4&keywords=indian+peaks

Jim Fox wrote:3rd Flatiron is closed due to raptor nesting Weather has been sketchy here this year. Lots of rain and thunderstorms and some late season snow.

True. And there are lots of closed flatirons, and lots of open ones. There will be no problem finding a great route to get on.
As for rain and T-storms go, Who knows what it will be in a week? Plan on some climbing weather, as that is actually the norm. Just no certainty on any given day.
I can say this though - as far as flatirons climbing goes, any danger of a late season snow has very long since passed. It CAN get down to 60 deg F... but mostly warmer even as a low.

If you like slabs and want to do some peaks, consider the N/ Ridge of Mt Toll. It is not hard, and the views from it are continental divide. It is spectacular.