The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...
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I missed some good stuff on here. Dylan what are you doing?!?! |
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- TO THE BRO SNAPPING PICS OF MY ANCHOR ON THE BOY SCOUT ROUTE - EAST BLUFF - |
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powhound84 wrote: What are you talking about? Some background info might help. Did this person actually tell you that your anchor was sketchy? Could he have been taking pics to show someone an example of a good anchor? I'm lost but I assume we have to be missing a chunk of the story. Regarding the anchor you are critiquing, pics or it didn't happen...Saw him snapping pics and after he walked down(why not rappel?) I mentioned something to the effect of "Get some jive-ass anchor pics up there?" to which he replied yes.... he continued with - "You're not going to die on it, but I mean...yeah" at which point he started talking about a different anchor he saw that was ACTUALLY sketchy on another climb.... lol I seriously regretted leaving my phone with my girlfriend after I topped out to set another anchor down the way and saw what he was climbing on!... Just grinds my gears when someone is trying to preach without practicing... So much so that I made a name on MP to call it out - apologies for the negativity. Rant over. |
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powhound84 wrote: What are you talking about? Some background info might help. Did this person actually tell you that your anchor was sketchy? Could he have been taking pics to show someone an example of a good anchor? I'm lost but I assume we have to be missing a chunk of the story. Regarding the anchor you are critiquing, pics or it didn't happen...Don't feed the troll! (But I agree, pics or didn't happen) |
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Mike Robinson wrote: Don't feed the troll! (But I agree, pics or didn't happen)The troll has been fed!!! hah I will accept 'pics or it didn't happen', but regardless of the other persons setup, it is bothersome when an ABSOLUTELY bomber(SRENE, EARNEST, whatever) anchor is criticized because someone thinks they know it all and have seen it all. Ok, rant ACTUALLY over. |
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I'm still lost. |
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I brought my second up on a 2 pt anchor this weekend, poorly equalized. I forgot to take pictures. When she whipped the anchor nearly blew the whole lake up. Can we get back to posting pictures of shitty TR anchors? |
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Mike Robinson wrote:I brought my second up on a 2 pt anchor this weekend, poorly equalized. I forgot to take pictures. When she whipped the anchor nearly blew the whole lake up. Can we get back to posting pictures of shitty TR anchors?Many people don't have knowledge of what principles to follow when they build anchors. Many climbers look at their anchors and declare them good based on conjecture. Hopefully we are seeking the truth behind the makeup of bomber anchors in which our lives, and the lives of our friends, will place their trust in. Cheers |
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Posting this one as a question. Shouldn't the minimun size be at least like 6 or 7mm cord? I think this is 4mm and the orange is 5mm. |
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Personally, I think 8mm is usually overkill, but 4mm is way too thin and 5mm usually makes me nervous. As powhound suggests, the issue is abrasion not strength in a TR setup. Even if an anchor system is stable side-to-side, thin cord gives enough that you get abrasion at the edge as the system is repeatedly weighted and unweighted, especially over sharp quartzite edges. |
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This one is obviously strong enough but I find it a bit laughable. Some interesting tactics. Referring to the hitched together nuts. I'd consider it a "cluster Fu&k". :) |
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Joel Allen wrote:This one is obviously strong enough but I find it a bit laughable. Some interesting tactics. Referring to the hitched together nuts. I'd consider it a "cluster Fu&k". :)Actually, this thing looks great. I am not really sure about the nut on the left, but I have an explanation of the the nut on the right (that is hitched to the red nut). Looks like if you clipped a carabiner to the right nut, the biner would be cross loaded over the edge. Using a nut hitch prevents this. Whoever made this anchor knew what s/he was doing. |
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haha I would only make an anchor like this if that were literally the only gear I had and had to make them work. This is way more complicated then it needs to be. |
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I agree that it is bomber as well! I'm just says its soo inefficient. That piece of blue webbing was at least 30 feet long. Could have made the whole anchor with it, especially on Brinton's.... :) I shared because I thought it was interesting. :) |
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Joel Allen wrote:This one is obviously strong enough but I find it a bit laughable. Some interesting tactics. Referring to the hitched together nuts. I'd consider it a "cluster Fu&k". :)Soo hitching two nuts together to avoid loading a carabiner on a sharp edge is actually a thing. Not knowing that indicates you may want to gain more experience before criticizing. Building anchors is an individual thing and as long as the placements are good there is nothing wrong with this anchor. I would have done it differently but who cares as long as the anchor is bomber. This thread in general is a bit weird but now way out there. If I see an anchor that is obviously jacked I casually mention it to the party. Sometimes they are happy to get the feedback other times they are not. In all the years I have been climbing though I have never seen one of these jacked anchors fail and cause an injury or death. This I believe is a testament to the redundancy of the systems and the relatively low demand on TR anchors. Twice I have seen anchors at the Lake that were totally unsafe as they used loose rock for part of the system. I insisted the setter come check out the issue and offered suggestions that solved the problem both times the setters were initially pissed but saw the light and even helped move the loose rock back away from the edge. In both cases it was early in the year and the rocks must have worked loose over the winter. It is fine to elevate the safety of everyone at the Lake by watching out for each other but posting a pic of an anchor you do not understand and labeling it jacked is not |
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Again. Lol I said it was bomber. I didn't say anything to the people because I had no problem with this anchor. But I stand by the fact that I think its a cluster fuck lol. Because it is. |
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Joel Allen wrote:This one is obviously strong enough but I find it a bit laughable. Some interesting tactics. Referring to the hitched together nuts. I'd consider it a "cluster Fu&k". :)Joel, while this thing is perhaps a bit over-engineered, I'd hardly call it a cluster. Girth hitching nuts is standard practice to avoid levering 'biners over an edge - other solutions exists, but this works just fine. Yes, a bomber anchor could have been made with less, but this thing is pretty good. Assuming that the individual placements are legit, the only other real criticisms I have are the girth hitched slings at the master point, and the 'biner on the blue webbing being slightly levered over the rock. All-told (again assuming the placements are good) this gets a "B+" in my book with notches off for the girth hitched master point, the levered 'biner, and the inefficiency. I'd climb on it, but there are better solutions using less of the gear pictured. |
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See I learned something new. I guess I just don't understand why you would ever choose to make an anchor like this when he had a full rack. I would have maybe thought he was going to lead it but then why would he place 2 #2s? Briton's eats those up. |
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I take Joel to be saying this latest example is unaesthetic, ungraceful, and I agree with that. "Cluster fu&k" is a bit strong. |
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Well said Doug :) |