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Proximal phalanx swelling

Original Post
Ben Rau · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Hi Friends!
I am looking for some free advice on a possible injury, just to get a feel for what may be going on.

The area on the ventral side of the proximal phalanx on my ring finger is a bit swollen. The onset was pretty slow, about two days after some mild outdoor climbing. I have no pain over the range of motion but there is mild pain when I apply pressure to the area. There is no pain when crimping or extending the finger. Anyone have experience with something similar? Thanks!

Sam T · · Boise, ID · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 570

Yup same here. H-taping helps support the joint while climbing and you should be able to find some info with a quick google search. I also tend to ice after going to the gym or really cranking on it.

I would also get a rice bucket or something like the grip trainer from Metolius that works concentric and eccentric contractions to strengthen the supporting muscles for long term improvement.

And finally stretching after climbing is important to help give those tendons some relief. Classic straight arm and then flex the palm and fingers backwards tends to do the trick.

Some combo or all of the above should help keep it from becoming a serious issue and get you up and running pain free quick enough. Good luck!

Ben Rau · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks for the tips, Sam.
I guess I will be taping for the next few weeks. Haven't had any finger problems before but this last trip didn't offer me much time to do supplemental exercises and stretching. That's probably what did me in.

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101

Sounds like a mild A2 pulley strain, I get them all the time. Climb through it, just limit aggressive closed crimping.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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