Bolting Mentor for Tahoe

I really want to learn how to place bolts. I have been climbing for 7 years and feel the time has come to give back in a meaningful way. I often see old buttonhead bolts around and would like to replace them. Is anyone around Tahoe willing to show a guy how to get into this part of the sport? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Jared.....try the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) website. www.safeclimbing.org There is lots of information there that will help you.
On the ASCA website check out... "Education"...."How to Rebolt."

I would love to help with some rebolting work. I'm in Modesto but Tahoe is a regular Summer destination.

Jared,

One of the basic tools used to remove old RAWL button heads is a "Tuning Fork" . You can make one or get one made using a tile setters chisel. Mill a parallel sided slot in it and get the taper ground down to fit under the hangers. You will probably want a couple of different sized "tuning forks". Often it is best to use them in pairs. Add a wall hammer or any hammer about 20 oz's., vice grips. Small crowbar. Small sturdy bag for all the pulled out bits and tools...

Lots of information on MP, Supertopo and the ASCA sites.

Quarter incher's can come out easy but 5/16 and 3/8 are usually a bitch; you'll end up spalling the rock. You can patch with moldable epoxy ( one brand name is Insta-crete) and some sand or glue a flake over the spall if it's not too big.

Installing new hardware...someone else can chime in for that. The current trend is to install stainless hardware and in your area IMO it is definitely worth the extra cost.

Thanks for the info peeps. I'm trying to find a friend with the tools around here to make a couple tuning forks. I have done a good amount of research about removing these old bolts, but I figured it might be worthwhile to meet with a local, or at least gain some new insight.

John, shoot me a message when you're up here and maybe we can connect. Appreciate the offer for sure.

Hey Jared! Ping Dan Kennedy, who works at Sports Ltd in South Lake Tahoe- he does a lot of the development in Woodfords' Canyon, and would probably be happy to have an extra set of hands. I don't think he does much rebolting, but certainly knows how to put up FAs!

Also, ping me if you're in South Lake and want a climbing partner!

Eric Munsing wrote:Hey Jared! Ping Dan Kennedy, who works at Sports Ltd in South Lake Tahoe- he does a lot of the development in Woodfords' Canyon, and would probably be happy to have an extra set of hands.

Anyone have any old Lost Arrow pitons they would wanna part. Trying to make tuning forks on the cheap. Just looking for a couple, I think maybe a #3 and 4.