Gym hold breakage

Recently at a climbing gym I saw a guy take a good fall when a hold broke. The hold ripped free of the bolt, leaving a gaping hole in the hold where the small bolt hole used to be. It was a large hold, so probably put quite a bit of force on the bolt, and the plastic just failed. It was the first time I've seen this, and was just wondering how often people see this happen.

At my home wall and local walls I've lost 3-5 handsholds, and 2 footholds over 3 years, so its not all too uncommon

Unfortunately, this happens regularly at the gym I go to. I think it's the resin holds that have to be put in just so, otherwise they just break to bits, and quite easily, too. On the other hand, I blew a clip, once, fairly close to the ground. I would have decked if my rope didn't get caught on one of these holds.

One time I saw a guy rip off a whole chunk of plywood and thick texture coating. It was pretty funny.

I've had a Metolius hold just about explode on me. There were many pieces that went flying.

"Geologic time includes now."

I heard that blue route is more like green-minus now that the hold broke.

Older holds, or ones where someone has over-tightened the nut are more likely to go, but it does happen. Not common, I'd even say rare, but nowhere near unheard of. Most people who done a lot of climbing in a gym will have had a hold or two break on them. I've definitely had it happen a couple times to me. I think I've had real rock break more than I've had gym holds break, though.

Overtightening.

As hold technology has progressed I'd say it happens less often these days. Gyms don't want to spend a bunch of coin on fancy holds if they're brittle and need replacing often. The newer materials going into holds tend to flex a little better and not shatter.

Like David said, most folks who've climbed in gyms for long enough have probably broken a few holds. I've snapped 2 or 3 in the last 10 years, all of them being "older" generation holds out of more brittle materials.

I'm sure the bigger guys out there would agree w/ me that spinning holds is far bigger concern and can mess w/ your head a little depending on the situation.

^
I'd rather a hold broke off on me than spin like a top when I grab it. The spinning has tweaked my wrist in the past on a bouldering wall, whereas the real rock holds I've broken just cause a fall.