9.5mm rope, weak+light+novice belayer, belay device suggestions?
|
I was thinking a grigri2 or a clickup. But a tube style belay device that grips hard (like my ol 10.5mm in a ATC-G hard) would be great too. A Metolius BRD or DMM Bugette perhaps? |
|
Edelrid MegaJul |
|
Learn to belay properly in the first place. |
|
I think its called the bugette |
|
I love the ClickUp. It's got a rock solid lock-off for a device which has the identical hand motions and position as an ATC. Lowering is smooth and intuitive and it modulates well. |
|
MegaJul. The learning curve is actually not that steep. |
|
MegaJul. The learning curve is actually not that steep. |
|
djh860 wrote:I think its called the bugette dmmclimbing.com/products/bu…I got one of those when I thought I'd buy some twins - never did. Am curious, though, how well it works on a rope at the top end of its' advertised ideal range (i.e., 9.5mm) ... I'd guess it would grip as hard as the OP desires ... maybe too hard? ... looks / feels about as substantial as a bottle cap - like use it once and then throw it away. :-) |
|
I'm a big fan of the AlpineUp. It's the double rope version of the clickup, so it's got the same awesome belaying characteristics with the added benefit of being able to rappel with it and belay seconds from above. It's a bit bulky and heavy, but man I sure do love the way that thing belays. It feels way more foolproof than either a grigri or the megajul. |
|
What hasn't been addressed is tying in to an anchor. |
|
And u can use a gri gri to belay from the top no problem. Plus it is more easily releasable than a at. In guide mode. |
|
First of all, a novice belayer is a novice belayer. I get the impression that some people are putting an assisted braking device in a novice's hands and then very quickly progressing to lead belaying in the expectation that the device will lock up and substitute for the novice's lack of skill. Thinking that assisted braking technology can substitute for practice and experience is a gamble with potentially nasty consequences. |
|
djh860 wrote:I think it's called the bugette dmmclimbing.com/products/bu…The DMM Bugette is great for skinny ropes (<8.5mm) but not so good for 9.5mm. It'll work but there are better choices for that diameter. |
|
Don't forget that you can add a second locking biner to dramatically improve the "grip" of most any slot-type device. |
|
In a perfect world your belayer learns to belay properly and you always have the same belayer that you implicitly trust. A tube belay device is fine for them. |
|
I had a 45kg girlfriend for a while, I weigh around 75kg (Not going to convert that for the muricans, sorry). |
|
another vote for the mega jul. anybody whose used an atc can learn it in a minute and it has extra security |
|
Mega Jul |
|
Anyone else have issues lowering with the MegaJul? I've found it to majorly suck to the point that I won't use mine if I know I'm going to be lowering my climber. |
|
Mega jul is also good |
|
Trevor. wrote:Anyone else have issues lowering with the MegaJul? I've found it to majorly suck to the point that I won't use mine if I know I'm going to be lowering my climber.I have no such issues. Do you have a really old fat rope? I find it far easier to lower than with a Mammut Smart. Are you putting your left thumb in the thumb loop? |