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Linking Upper Exum and OS?

Original Post
Rob Wild · · Gardiner, MT · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

Had an intriguing idea cross my mind the other day....it seems a lot of people say the crux on the Upper Exum is the route-finding, especially trying to find the Owen-Spalding rappels on the way down if you've never been up there before.

So I got to thinking, wouldn't it be possible to climb the Upper Exum up to the top of the V-Pitch, then take the escape ledge over to join up with the O-S route right by the main rap area. Then you could have the advantage of finding the location of the main rappel, climbing up Sargent's chimney and pinpointing the location of that rappel, AND still climbing all of the main pitches of the Upper Exum.

Anyone ever thought to do this before?

KeithS · · Campton, NH · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 732

Do it all the time...

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50

I climbed the upper Exum many years ago & was concerned about route finding but never had any problems finding our way up or down. Either we were lucky or it really isn't that hard to find your way. There was nobody ahead of us, so it was good we found the route so easily.
Climbing it again this summer- hope I remember the route

Rob Wild · · Gardiner, MT · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

Hell, if it was a bluebird day and you had all kinds of time with no storms blowing in, you could climb the Upper Exum, take the escape ledge from the top of the V, do the main rap, then climb the whole O-S route. Kill two birds with one stone, haha!

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50
AK123 wrote:It's all easy and awesome. Go do it and had fun. Just solo'd the upper & downclimed OS (never having climbed the Grand before), what a great way to spend the 4th :)
What were conditions like coming down OS?
I'm climbing Exum in 3 weeks and reports from rangers sound grim....

tetonclimbinggrand.blogspot…
JaminT Rossetter · · Gloucester, MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Also scampered up the OS yesterday. There is a some snow/ice/seepage, but very easy to avoid with intelligent route finding. We soloed with a rope so as it rap, very straight forward with no Oh god! moments.

As far a linking... its not had to find the raps on the OS. When you scramble down, aim in the direction of the Enclosure. Cant miss em.

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50
JaminT wrote:Also scampered up the OS yesterday. There is a some snow/ice/seepage, but very easy to avoid with intelligent route finding. We soloed with a rope so as it rap, very straight forward with no Oh god! moments. As far a linking... its not had to find the raps on the OS. When you scramble down, aim in the direction of the Enclosure. Cant miss em.
Good to hear. Jenny Lake Rangers blog says crampons, boots and ice axes needed.
planning to climb end of July and trying to go as light as possible. Guessing conditions will improve significantly by then but glad to hear you found conditions reasonably good yesterday
Travis Senor · · Cary, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 60

Finding the way up on the Upper Exum, in my experience, wasn't too hard at all. Though after the V-pitch my partner and I inadventently finished on the OS anyway, I think. We headed for the "west leaning crack" and went on to the summit from there.

Getting down, a lot of the ledges looked the same, but once you find the rap it's really straightforward.

My guess is the rangers are recommending the axe and crampons for the descent from the Lower Saddle more for than the descent of the OS itself. Though in early July, I did take them all the way up and found them useful crossing the Exum gully as it was snowed up on the traverse over to Wall St. I'd like to do it again when it's totally dry and thus carry less stuff though, ha.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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