Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Joe Cote and Eric Radack Oct .17th, 1971 |
Page Views: | 11,739 total · 56/month |
Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Mar 24, 2007 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Note: In April 2022 a very large rockfall altered the first pitch of this route drastically. The Friends of the Ledges organization put a lot of work into making this route safe to climb once again. I have altered the description to reflect the changes to the climb.
This climb is one of those that the first time you look at it it makes you feel like you must climb it. It speaks to you and draws you in. That is both good and bad: good because it is a stellar route, bad because it can draw you in when you are not ready. There have been a few injuries on this climb over the past few years due to people getting pumped, stuffing in less than optimal gear, and then falling from the powerful pumpy layback crux.
It's a great climb, so by all means climb it, but be sure to take the time to make every piece count. There is good gear all the way. but it can be tough to see, since the crack is at your knees much of the time.
Pitch 1: (5.7) Climb the low angle face heading up and right. This section used to be a layback crack but the crack fell off and so did the opportunities for trad gear protection. Now as you climb the face you can clip two bolts on your way to the belay stance. Build an anchor in the crack at this stance before heading up into the right angling crux pitch. .
Pitch 2: (5.9) Continue along the crack using face holds when they present themselves. It is possible in a few spots to step down and right to get a good view of your placement, and the climbing to come. The crux comes as a tough, burly, layback as the crack steepens. Take the time to protect well. After that you get to a stance below a final crack. The original line went right around easy climbing to the ledge, but if you want another 5.9 crux then fire the crack straight up to the ledge. Belay in a crack on the ledge.
Pitch 3: (5.6) Head up the cracks past a pin to more easy climbing and in to the woods at the top. Belay from trees. Hike off, or hitch a ride...
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