Mountain Project Logo

Wyoming Roadtrip Beta?

Original Post
DesertRat · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 196

My girlfriend and I are taking a road trip through Wyoming in a week or so. My plan is to drive all day/night to get to the Winds. Spend a day, drive to the Tetons, spend a day, day and half then make our way through Yellowstone and up to Missoula.

Since we don't really have time for anything that will take multiple days, are there any really good routes that we could get on in either the Winds or the Tetons? I know we're not really doing either place justice by only spending a day or so, but we're trying to make it up to Missoula to see some friends before having to get back to the grind.

Ideally we'd find something in the 5ish pitch realm 5.6-5.8, but a grade or two either way would be ok, if it was really worth it. I'd really like to get on Pingora or Wolf's Head in the Winds, but the approach kills us. The Grand would also be on the list, but again, I think the time will probably be too much. We might be able to swing an extra day in the itinerary somewhere if it means getting on something spectacular.

I appreciate any suggestions or beta for climbing, camping (or even cool lodging) and eats/brews not to miss. It's kind of a last minute thing.

JaminT Rossetter · · Gloucester, MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

The Winds are loverly, but they really demand more than a day, out of pure logistics. I would either spend a day at the Iris sport climbing or just drive on by to the Tetons and give them two or three days. The Grand (exum, owen spaulding) and others are very do-able in a day, eg Nez Perce SE, the middle, east face of teewinot, and many more. Or skip the Tetons and give the winds multiple days. Hard to give both only one day.

Lander Bar in Lander, Snake River brewery in jackson. Climbers ranch is lovely, shadow mt on the east side of the valley in Jackson is free and gorgeous. Good luck!

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
DesertRat wrote: the Winds...spend a day...we don't really have time for anything that will take multiple days, are there any really good routes that we could get on in...the Winds
"The Winds" isn't really doable as a 1-day whistle stop. Most things, climbing wise, will involve a long drive on a dirt road, a long hike in, and a big alpine route. This requires at least 3 days, unless you are a super-athlete. Save your visit to the Winds for a time when you can have a week to really get into the backcountry. There are some day-trip crags on the west side of the range around Pinedale; these are a bit obscure. Other alternatives would be to sport climb in the Wind River foothills around Lander (Wild Iris; Sinks Canyon), or have an extra day in the Tetons. I would suggest driving straight to the Tetons and then having several days there.

DesertRat wrote:Tetons... something in the 5ish pitch realm 5.6-5.8... cool lodging
The Tetons are more accessible, and it is easier to get something done if you only have a couple of days.

Popular Tetons moderates with relatively short approaches:
mountainproject.com/v/baxte…

mountainproject.com/v/guide…

For both, you take the boat across Jenny Lake and then the walk is less than 1 hour.

Hiking a bit more (2.5 hours) lets you do something like Irene's Arete, which would be a good choice for a great 5.8, without hiking quite so far as for the higher peaks. Irene's is a very reasonable day trip. mountainproject.com/v/irene…

Symemetry Spire has some interesting routes at 5.6-5.8, which a moderate apprach (for the Tetons...still a multi-hour slog). mountainproject.com/v/symme…

Or just get motivated, stop screwing around with the smaller stuff, and go up one of the higher peaks. If you skip the Wind's you'd have time to make one of these happen. Both are doable as a massive day, although a 2-day excursion is probably a bit more comfortable.
Upper Exum mountainproject.com/v/upper…
CMC Route mountainproject.com/v/cmc-r…

Avoid the Owen-Spauling. It sucks. It's only redeeming quality is that it is the easiest way up the peak. Otherwise it is just a choss gully.

Stay at the Teton Climber's Ranch.
DavisMeschke Guillotine · · Pinedale, WY · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 225

It comes down to quality over quantity. If you want to spend the time to climb one really bombass route in one of the most beautiful settings you can imagine, go to the winds (the trail up to the cirque is around 9 miles. Unless you're completely out of shape this can be done in 6 hours if you're not trying to book it). If you want to slog through tourists and wait in line for the summit route up to the grand, go to the Tetons. Imo the Tetons just don't compare but I'm pretty biased towards the winds... I also hate big crowds and recreationalists

Rhett Burroughs · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 230

I love tourons

DesertRat · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 196

Thank you all for the suggestions!

JCM, thanks for all the awesome resource gathering!

I'm guessing it will be one or the other at this point. I really want to get into the Winds, but I know my GF really wants to spend some time in the Tetons, so I'm guessing that is going to be the winner in this fight.

I hate having to choose....

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 269

My vote goes to either Irene's Arete, Open Book or something in Death Canyon, or better yet some fourth-classing up Teewinot or Enclosure - screw heavy packs or dealing with tourons on the boat. After climbing, drive north towards Yellowstone to Jackson Lake Lodge, kick back with a beer and a burger on the deck staring at Mt. Moran reflecting in the lake...

Michael Spiesbach · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 105

Everything in the winds is a very big undertaking. Just the drive in to the trailhead for the cirque of the towers takes well over an hour. Plus it's prime mosquito season up there right now so be wary of that..

If you can spend two days in the Tetons you should try for the full exam ridge. Doable in a day if you are strong and fast. The grand is one of my favorite places that I've ever been. IT's strikingly beautiful the whole way up and down.

I think you'll be rewarded much more for doing one beautiful big objective than a few quick pitstops...

I will say that wild iris for pure rock climbing is a really wonderful place as well. Plus Lander is a very nice little town.

DesertRat · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 196

Alright, we're planning on going after the Full Exum Ridge.

Thanks everyone for all the beta.

Our plan is to hike in to the lower saddle on Monday, then climb the route and hike out on Tuesday. Anyone have any recent conditions on the route i.e. whether I should bring some spikes or crampons & tools etc?

R Walters · · Sonora, CA · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 310
Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50
cam dodds · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 15

This is hilarious. My girlfriend and I are planning the same exact thing. I work night shift, we are driving a work truck out from south carolina for a lady on a ranch all day and night and spending 4 days in the area. Plan is full exum, after evaluating time/gf's skill/having a hard time letting go of missing the winds. Either way, July in Jackson, life can't be too bad, huh?

Be there a couple days after you, you mind post back on conditions on Grand?

DesertRat · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 196

Cam, will do if we go for it. While I have a spare set of crampons, my girlfriend doesn't have a pair of boots that will take them. Going to see what I can scrounge up to borrow before the trip, but we might just be going after some stuff in Cascade Canyon after all.

Trycycle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 699

What size boots do you need? Are you in Golden right now?

Ty Gittins · · bozeman · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 215

check out gallatin canyon between big sky and bozeman as well for a quick jaunt. excellent climbing, with good camping nearby as well

mountainproject.com/v/galla…

DesertRat · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 196

Trycycle, thanks for the offer, but we're in Flagstaff, AZ.

Based on the condition reports, what are people's thoughts for ability/safety using Kahtoola Microspikes and tools for LS approach and Full Exum? Alternatively, I could wear crampons, give her spikes and belay her up anything dicey? Thoughts?

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50

Things are apparently looking better...

tetonclimbinggrand.blogspot…
tetonclimbinggrand.blogspot…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
Post a Reply to "Wyoming Roadtrip Beta?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.