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Alpine destination climbs in WA

Original Post
Adam Paashaus · · Greensboro, NC · Joined May 2007 · Points: 791

This September I'm flying out to WA to take a friend up some great alpine routes in WA and I need some beta. 1st on the list (of course) is Outer Space. I'm also really intrigued by the Stanley-Burgner on Prusik. I don't have a permit yet for that so I will need to get a lottery the morning of, to camp below Prusik (my partner cant quite handle the car to car). How high a demand is there for the lottery? Is it likely that I will get one? Right now I'm thinking I'll try for it twice. If at 1st I don't succeed, I'll just hike up and do Outer Space. Then I'll try again the next day.

If there are other great routes I should look at, I'm open to them as well. Any other killer routes up to 7 or 8 pitches and up to 10a I should consider?

I won't get a chance to get out there again for a while so I want to do as much of the greats as possible.

MorganH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 197

I think if you show up on a weekday that time of year you shouldn't have too much trouble getting a permit for the enchantments. It's a pretty serious hump back into prussik, I don't think it would be that fun to do in a day unless you were jogging in and free-soloing. Days will also be a lot shorter in September. Washington Pass on highway 20 has some really good routes, with much shorter approaches. The West Face & North Chimney of Northern Early Winter Light Spire are both really fun. The complete north ridge of Stuart doesn't require a permit, and is awesome, but a little longer than your 8 or 9 pitch limit.

Jacob Burningham · · Seattle · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 20

I agree with MorganH, if you go on a weekday it's probably the flip of a coin to get a permit. Weekends will likely still be hard. Larch season starting earlier this year with weather? I've had friends stand in line two days in a row (Tues/Wed), and got the last permit on day 2, out of ~10 people.

Go for it!

Adam Paashaus · · Greensboro, NC · Joined May 2007 · Points: 791

Thanks y'all! I will keep those others in mind as backups. I may also head to Squamish for a day. The idea of spending a single day at Squamish makes me sad so I may save it for a longer trip in the future.

Tronald Dump · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

If I were coming to WA to do 2 routes, it wouldn't be those two. The enchantments will be serious hiking for a little bit of climbing. (it is totally classic and worth doing though). Hit WA Pass its essentially 4-12 pitch alpine cragging with a minimal hike to most classic routes. Lots of fun moderates, lots of classic hard climbs, all in the best setting imaginable.

Index is also amazing cragging with about a 5 minute walk from the car.... Velvety, amazing granite with sustained, sandbagged routes that take good gear. Everything from 4P 5.7 to harder than humanly possible climbing as well as classic Aid lines.

Holler at me over PM if you want any advice/beta

Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56

I agree with the Dump, head to WA pass, you will get the most for your money. Outer Space is good, but it is over hyped. If you come to WA and don't visit Index you are doing yourself a disservice.

Darrington for super long slab routes.

All along the mountain loop highway there is good alpine.

Adam Paashaus · · Greensboro, NC · Joined May 2007 · Points: 791

Tronald, That's some good insight. WA Pass looks good. I'm also thinking you have a good point about Index. I may actually just do outer Space and spend the rest of the time at Index. The views there seem pretty epic also and the routes are longer than I thought. And of course the quality! Outer Space has been both our tick lists for ages so I think we are pretty set on that one. Any Index beta? What guidebook do you recommend for that area? Is the free camping by the river still available? I see that they have break in problems, does that affect the camping too? Would I need to pack camp up every morning etc?

Curt Veldhuisen · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 1,278

As spectacular as Index is, it does not have very much climbing under 5.10 (which includes most "9s" there!). For mid-grades, I'd echo previous recommendations of WA Pass, Squamish and Darrington (if you like slab). And of course, Leavenworth has tons of great options beyond Snow Creek.

Hard to say what the weather will be in Sept though, so I'd research all those destinations and leave the dates and details until you get here. Flexibility is key in the PNW!

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Outer space is a fun route, worth doing. What about the Beckey route on Liberty Bell? 3-4 pitches, easy and you can't beat the views. Also more of an alpine feel than outer space. Lots of other interesting things in that area as well.

Drederek · · Olympia, WA · Joined Mar 2004 · Points: 315

The hike to Snow Creek wall is not all that far, if you start early and move fast you may be able to do Orbit as well as Outer Space. Its just as good a route, maybe better.

Gretchen 81 · · Longview, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 60

West Ridge of Stuart...no permit require, also in the Enchantment
West Ridge of Forbidden...permit required...N. Cascades out of Marble mount
Ingall's peak...no permit...enchantments
Drangontail...two moderate routes
Becky route on Liberty Bell...my all time favorite climb...Washington Pass (losts of great climbing in the moderate range)
NE Buttress Mt. Goode
So much awesome moderates in the N. Cascades!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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