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BD micro OFFSETS vs DMM brass OFFSETS?

Original Post
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Two questions:

1- Size wise, how close are BD offset micros #5 and 6 to DMM Brass #5 and 6?

2- I know DMM brass is softer than BD copper/steel, but how do they compare in terms of actual usability?

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,536

Unless BD changed their shape, DMM HB brass offsets handdown.
The double taper is great in small cracks and pin scars.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,536

Durability wise, probably the same, I've retired very few micro nuts and the reasons have been badly kinked wire (fall or weighing it) or dropping one...

Idaho Bob · · McCall, ID · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 757

For the vast majority of placements, BD stoppers work just fine. But for tricky placements DMM's rule.

Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

DMM peanuts are small offset nuts with a loop of cable instead of being brazed directly to the brass, which makes them more durable. They are great nuts, as are the full size DMM offsets.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Thanks for the more general input, but I am asking specifically about BD OFFSET MICRO STOPPERS (not the regular micros) VS HB/DMM BRASS offsets.

I need to fill in a gap, ideally DMM brass offset sizes 5 and 6. Just want to know how comparable the BDs are. Can get the BDs for half the cost of the DMM.

I have on my rack:
-standard BD stoppers
-HB aluminum offsets
-set of Peanuts
-HB brass offsets to size 4,
-regular BD micros(and BTW, I have no problem with the copper steel aspect of the BD micros vs brass RPs)

I have never had my hands on the BD offsets.

Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

Buy them both, they compliment each other.

Forget the two smallest sizes unless you're aid climbing.

Quit geeking out over the minutia and go climbing. Your nut-rack is fine.

Mal

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Malcolm Daly wrote:Buy them both, they compliment each other. Forget the two smallest sizes unless you're aid climbing. Quit geeking out over the minutia and go climbing. Your nut-rack is fine. Mal
LOL!

- When it comes to filling in gaps in the stopper range, I just need two stoppers. Don't want to end up with more that I don't need or use! And at $20+ a pop for DMM.s, for me that's too much $$ to buy excess.

-I quite enjoy geeking out over gear minutiae. Why should I quit?

-I am climbing so much these days that I am not physically recovering enough between climbing days.

-I am indeed quite generally happy with my nut rack!

-Agree about the smallest sizes and don't carry them

Cheers,
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Of u already have the dmm normal offsets, or WC/DMM nuts get the dmm brass offsets ... The sizing complements them well

The brass will last just fine on the DMM, the wire will likely bend then break from all the flexing before the brass deforms to being unusable

;)

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

OK, I think the subjective aspect is taken care of.

So dimensionally, let's try this method: Can anyone post a pic of DMM brass offsets #5 and 6 next to BD OFFSET micros #5 and 6 for a direct dimensional comparison?

Here are stock pics of both, but can we see them in the same photo right next to each other?

Thanks



rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
rocknice2 wrote:http://www.zionadventures.com/ZBlog/gear-reviews/gear-review-black-diamond-offset-micro-stopper/
That's what I am looking for! Great help, thanks.
Tim Fisher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 0

I would definitely consider the P nuts. They are a bit less offset. Makes them a little more usable for conventional placement. 4 & 5 are similar to 5 and 6 HB/DMM offset

Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 650
Tim Fisher wrote:I would definitely consider the P nuts. They are a bit less offset. Makes them a little more usable for conventional placement. 4 & 5 are similar to 5 and 6 HB/DMM offset
yeah, mountainhick seems to like the set of Peanuts they own :)
Mark Paulson · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 141

I got 3-6 DMM brass, also hoping the 6 would fill the "gap" between the #5 Peenut and the #7 Alloy Offset. Turns out the brass 6 is pretty much the exact same size as the #5 Peenut, although it does have an additional taper. So basically, there's no gap where you think you have one. Still glad I got them, though.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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