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Tell me about the climbing scene in Missoula

Original Post
Colonel Sandbag · · Boston, MA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 76

I'm considering taking a job there. I know very little. Are there lots of climbers? Lots of rock? Opportunities for post-work cragging? Friendly crowd? What's the deal?

Keatan · · AZ · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 50

I moved here just under a year ago and wondered the same things. The climbing community is super friendly here. There is a pretty large group of climbers and it's usually easy to find a partner for cragging. Partners for bigger routes and ice are a bit harder to come by though. There is a lot of rock within an hour to an hour and a half with the closest good crags being about ~40 minutes away so after-work cragging is possible especially this time of year when it's light out til 10. Overall, you could do a lot worse than Missoula

Colonel Sandbag · · Boston, MA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 76

Good to know. Thanks, man. Hopefully I'll see you out climbing!

Ben Mackall · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 1,823

Wouldn't say "lots of rock", and wouldn't say a climbing-centric social scene. Crags to look into would be Blodgett Canyon (multi trad), Kootenai canyon, Lolo pass, etc. Apart from that, the greater world of SW montana climbing is available within 3 hours (Gallatin canyon, Humbug Spires, Homestake pass to name a few), and some great destinations within 6 hours or so (City of Rocks, Massacre Rocks, Frenchman's Coulee).

It's not Bend, its not Boulder, its not SLC or Vegas, but there's stuff to be had. The long and short is that it won't be mecca for you but you're not going to have to give up your climbing career taking this job. People in Missoula, particularly the outdoor type, are a pretty friendly and open bunch.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I like watching Missoula's local 6pm news. The worst crime there seems to be addicts breakingand entering. festivals, lost cats and dogs get coverage.

Ben Mackall · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 1,823

Learn to fly fish and you will spend a lifetime there a happy man/ woman.

Josh Kornish · · Whitefish, MT · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 800

Having actually lived in Missoula for a long time and climbing for several years in the area, I'll chime in.

Missoula has way more rock than anyone here is giving it credit for. It's all pretty accessible and easy to find... once you have beta... It's kinda a Montana thing...

The climbing community in Missoula is super friendly and open. You'll have no problems hooking up with partners for cragging. Partners for ice are fewer and far between but Bozeman is a short jaunt away.

The worst thing about Missoula is really just the job market so you're golden!

Cheers!

Brock M · · Mountain West · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 5

Hello, I figured I had better post here instead of starting a new thread.

I am moving to Missoula in August for grad school and should have a few weeks open for solid climbing before school starts. I mostly sport climb and have a bias for limestone but I also enjoy all other climbing disciplines or rock types.

Here are some questions I have about Missoula:
Where is a good place to find partners?
Is the schools climbing gym any good? ie. well set routes, change routes regularly, and a good training area with climbing specific equipment.
I know there is a ton of rock around there and trad/adventure climbing is always abundant in the mountain west but what is the sport climbing/bouldering scene like?
Anyone have recommendations on what part of town to live in or not to live in?

Thanks,

Brock

DanielPerret · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Hey Brock,

Check out Freestone when you get to town... great bouldering gym, and a hangout for lots of area climbers.

Good bouldering in the southern Bitterroot, about an hour and a half from town. Good sport climbing within an hour from town around Drummond and in Kootenai and some of the other Bitterroot canyons.

Pretty much anywhere in town east of Reserve is an easy bike commute to campus. Generally, the closer to campus you get, the nicer/more expensive the neighborhood gets.

Brock M · · Mountain West · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 5
DanielPerret wrote:Hey Brock, Check out Freestone when you get to town... great bouldering gym, and a hangout for lots of area climbers. Good bouldering in the southern Bitterroot, about an hour and a half from town. Good sport climbing within an hour from town around Drummond and in Kootenai and some of the other Bitterroot canyons. Pretty much anywhere in town east of Reserve is an easy bike commute to campus. Generally, the closer to campus you get, the nicer/more expensive the neighborhood gets.
Thanks for the information Daniel.
Josh Kornish · · Whitefish, MT · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 800

Brock, Try to live in the Lower Rattlesnake, University Area, Or Downtown / Northsidish.

The Bouldering is great around Missoula

In order of proximity to the bigger areas you have

Sweathouse Creek - 40 minutes

30 minute hike in is rewarded by some of the best Bitterroot boulders in a beautiful setting. My partner and I also developed some great sport just above the bouldering and we've done some incredible multipitch trad lines.
Drive through the center of Victor and look for Sweathouse Creek Rd.

Lolo Area - 40 minutes

If you seek adventure you may be rewarded with some of the best boulder problems in the entire state. Keep in mind you may just end up wandering like a kid in the candy store among hundred egg shaped, blank boulders. If you can find your way around this is an amazing area. Especially in the summer. My partners and I also developed a really neat area at the bottom of the Crystal Theater by a creek. Mostly V5 and up but some great easier problems as well. Approach from highway 12

Elk Meadows - 60 minutes

This area is newly discover for the most part and may end up being the best bouldering destination in the Missoula area. Lots of development of top-notch boulder problems going on now and there is certainly more to be hand. Maybe orient yourself with google earth before this one.

Lost Horse Canyon - 75 minutes

The most popular bouldering area outside of Missoula. Primarily this is just due to ease of access and a great guide book. Host to tons of classic lines. LoHo is a pretty magical place and always a safe bet if you are on a solo circuit.

Other lesser appreciated areas with great problems are:

Bass Creek 2.5 miles up trail to incredible boulder in creek
Blodgett Canyon Campground
Lake Como
Skalkaho Pass
North Fork

The sport climbing is fantastic around Missoula and there will always be high quality lines to push yourself on.

Kootenai - is the most classic area - best after work

Mill Creek - is one of the most popular areas and has a great variety of easy to hard climbs.

Rattler/Mulky Sharp limestone, soft grades

Alberton Reststop - Surf and stone bra

Bass Creek - Decent little crag with short approach

Various Lolo domes - old school / new skool

Blodgett parking lot wall - Old school. May have fun, may poop your pants

McCalla Ridge / Big Creek - Mystery

Lost Horse Crags - Too uphill of an approach for the dedicated sport climber

Sweathouse Crags - Short, fun climbs in a serene setting

Elk Meadows - Coming soon...

TRAD CLIMBING

The Bitterroot is the sickest stomping ground for the brave - adventurous soul. Let me explain.

Blodgett Canyon -

Click here to learn how I made $2000 from home this month!!!! Click HERE to learn how I made $2000 from home last month!!!

basically so good I had to link you to it twice!

Lost Horse Canyon -

Stellar splitters in a magical setting - exquisite.

Kootenai Canyon - Classic one-pitch, two- pitch lines.

Mill Creek - Way too underappreciated! Seek out the aschrendizers!

SO MUCH OTHER AMAZING STUFF! Just go find it!

Josh

Brock M · · Mountain West · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 5

Thanks Josh.
I think that's about the best response I could have hoped for. I just got a hell of a lot more excited for my move.
Are there any guidebooks for the area that you would recommend?
Also, your chalk bags are awesome; keep up the good work!

Josh Kornish · · Whitefish, MT · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 800

Thanks Brock!

I'm always happy to share information about Missoula. It really is an incredible area and I can pretty much guarantee you that you will find yourself feeling at home in time.

IMO There is not one single decent guidebook for the area. The Falcon is pitifully inaccurate. There are always rumors of new guides in the works but for now your best bet is through the Mountain Project app.

Brock M · · Mountain West · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 5

That's about what I figured.
Thanks again for all the information Josh.

Josh Kornish · · Whitefish, MT · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 800

One more thing for any new Missoulians! GET OUT AND CHECK OUT THE LOCAL CUISINE!

raoulkabob Nitzsche · · Lakewood, OH · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

I love Missoula!!!

Luke Maechler · · Bozeman, Montana · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

The rock around Missoula in my experience is the gem of the whole state. There's no other place in Montana where you have bouldering and 1000 ft trad lines so close together and easily accessible. Have fun and explore a ton!

zak clare-salzler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 35
Brock Mickelsen wrote:Hello, I figured I had better post here instead of starting a new thread. I am moving to Missoula in August for grad school and should have a few weeks open for solid climbing before school starts. I mostly sport climb and have a bias for limestone but I also enjoy all other climbing disciplines or rock types. Here are some questions I have about Missoula: Where is a good place to find partners? Is the schools climbing gym any good? ie. well set routes, change routes regularly, and a good training area with climbing specific equipment. I know there is a ton of rock around there and trad/adventure climbing is always abundant in the mountain west but what is the sport climbing/bouldering scene like? Anyone have recommendations on what part of town to live in or not to live in? Thanks, Brock
Brock, don't move here while you still can ;)
Kurt HR Krueger · · Missoula, MT · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 441

Just a quick note to defend the state guide. Randall wasn't trying to include everything. Just hitting the high points. Also, the history was no guidebooks (until about 1990 for an average for the state). Guidebooks are hard work and most people were just working hard to get routes up (or blowing up spires over access roads but that's another story).

Never put all the info in the Butte guide. Now we are in battles over sport climbs (and climbing plans) in the Bitterroots. I'm glad we have areas that are unknown. I have the experience to justify this opinion.

-Hard Rock

Josh Kornish · · Whitefish, MT · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 800
Kurt HR Krueger wrote:Just a quick note to defend the state guide. Randall wasn't trying to include everything. Just hitting the high points. Also, the history was no guidebooks (until about 1990 for an average for the state). Guidebooks are hard work and most people were just working hard to get routes up (or blowing up spires over access roads but that's another story). Never put all the info in the Butte guide. Now we are in battles over sport climbs (and climbing plans) in the Bitterroots. I'm glad we have areas that are unknown. I have the experience to justify this opinion. -Hard Rock
I apologize if I seemed harsh or unappreciative of the Falcon guide, Mr. Krueger. I respect Mr. Randall's intentions and the amount of effort that goes into creating anything, especially a guide book.

These are for sure tense times in the greater Missoula area and we all appreciate your contributions and advocacy for our climbing resources. I'm also glad that places in the Bitterroot remain unknown for future adventurers. Your experience in the mountains is admirable and I hope to continue to learn from your experience.

Mad respect,
Josh Kornish
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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