Whitehorse slabs

i will be climbing the standard route tomorrow. I know it's only 5.5 but slabs freak me out as do run outs. I expect to lead most pitches. Any advice?

i would not recommend leading standard route if you don't like run outs and slab climbing. Its 5.5 but the easiest way to do it involves a 5.7 pitch. I would recommend The Cormier-Magness Route. Just as fun, plus it has bolts!

Shane N wrote:i would not recommend leading standard route if you don't like run outs and slab climbing. Its 5.5 but the easiest way to do it involves a 5.7 pitch. I would recommend The Cormier-Magness Route. Just as fun, plus it has bolts!

Or Beginner's Route

mountainproject.com/v/begin…

I'm of the opinion that Cormier Magness is considerably less commiting than Standard Route.. There are a few pitches that are quite run out at the top, but they are very easy slab scrambles. The harder stuff is reasonable well protected by Whitehorse standards.

I kind of think that Cormier is easier than Standard but what do I know.

If you get there early, you could probably try for both.. cormier goes fast, not a lot of gear placements, and no gear anchors. If you move quickly and it's early enough, hit up Standard.

I recently did Cormier and Sea of Holes in a day, finished up by 4pm.

I'll ask the obvious - why you going slab climbing if you dislike it? if you're looking to gain experience, you should probably follow some slab for a bit until you do get used to it (less "freaked out"). I've been slow to come around to slab climbing, only accumulating bits and pieces of experience and leads. For a long time I refused to lead any slab. I still don't lead chimneys! lol

In other words, you aren't a pussy to tap out and say you don't want to lead it until you get more confident on it. You'd be a dumbass to fall and scrape yourself all to shit (best case) knowing you're no good/inexperienced at leading it.

Bring tricams and be ready for some runout. It's a fun route. Have fun im jealous I won't be up there tomorrow.

djh860 wrote:i will be climbing the standard route tomorrow. I know it's only 5.5 but slabs freak me out as do run outs. I expect to lead most pitches. Any advice?

So...How'd it go??

Just to reiterate- bring a set or double set of tricams.

And leave them on your rack !!!

Standard and beginners will be really crowded, with wait times, they both have long run outs as well. C-M or even Dike route are better choices for a first time WH climber.

the only thing tricams are good for on those slab routes is hanging down and draging on the rock so you can't see your feet when you are run out.. the low angle makes a gear sling somwhat of a liability;)

Remember. It's just like roofing but you don't get paied;)

It went well. The climbing was run out but easy. It was not crowded. I'd like to try Cormier magness next. Where is the start?

Nick Goldsmith wrote:the only thing tricams are good for on those slab routes is hanging down and draging on the rock so you can't see your feet when you are run out.. the low angle makes a gear sling somwhat of a liability;) Remember. It's just like roofing but you don't get paied;)

Tri cams are bomber in some of the tiny pockets up there, where not much else will work.

You know how many times i have heard that crap ? "You gotta have tri cmams" BULL

john strand wrote:You know how many times i have heard that crap ? "You gotta have tri cmams" BULL

Yeah, but they definitely make some placements a lot easier or a lot more secure than other devices. Especially in weird circular pockets that seem to be more than occasional on Whitehorse.

If you are new to the Slabs, Tricams definitely help. I actually ONLY carry them slab climbing, and consider them worthless in the Gunks. You don't need anything above the brown one. They will protect the first pitch from the launch pad if you go straight up, and the pitch above the Crystal Pocket. If you are John Strand you don't need any gear at all. Standard is, in my opinion a bit better protected than Cormier-Magness, and Beginners is notoriously run-out, though easy.

Most of the Tricam placements require some weight, like your approach shoes or a big fat cam to hold them down while you move, and you want to use long slings.

The 5.7 pitch is more straightforward and less rope rope drag than the 5.5 "Brown Spot".

Maybe..but calling them essential is a bit much..if you have them fine,,but don't avoid the climb if you don't.

Wired nuts and partial cam placements work fine on the Slabs..

Just who the heck is this John Strand guy?!?!?!? Heck I don't leave home to go to work without my pinkie!

I'd agree John,not essential, just handy. I climbed all my slab routes there at least once before I owned any. I used to carry them tradding too, but tossed them out to make room for a few C3's.

In a lot of cases the newer narrow head cams like Master cams can be great in solution pockets.

Strand is a legend here, currently undergoing a bionic upgrade, so look out!

Aware of his lofty status in our little world. Perhaps when he recovers from his "tuneup" he will have gained a new found appreciation for our little tricam friends. BTW Mr. Strand best wishes for very successful procedures and a speedy and complete recovery.

john strand wrote:Maybe..but calling them essential is a bit much..if you have them fine,,but don't avoid the climb if you don't. Wired nuts and partial cam placements work fine on the Slabs..

John
I have been on a few routes of yours and with the sparse places for gear one might think that gear may not be essential at all let alone tricams in your opinion. For those of you who have not heard of John heed what Tom said. He has put up some bad a$$ routes and even in his current state he would out climb most people.