conditions in bugaboo
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Im heading up to the bugs on friday and I was wondering if anyone knew what the conditions are looking like. Thanks. |
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We were there from 6/6-6/20. |
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awesome thanks! |
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bump for any more recent conditions. are pons needed, aka is the soft staying soft over night and not much glacier ice showing?? planning on having boots + axe. thanks. |
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I saw some recent photos. |
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For those interested: Col still in good shape, firm-ish in the morning, sloppy in the afternoon. Cracks starting to open on both sides but no issues yet. Cracks opening at the bottom of pigeon. |
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Any updates on conditions? |
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I got back on July 4 so its been 9 days. Conditions change quick but idunno if anyone else will give you a more current report. |
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I'm also trying to plan a trip to the Bugs for mid-August and interested in conditions. As conditions worsen in the B-S col, is it still possible to climb a few of the moderate classics (West Ridge Pigeon Spire, Kain Route)? If so, how does one approach the climbs? And what is the biggest hazard - just rock fall in the col and soft snow bridges? |
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acmg.ca/mcr/
The Canadian guides often post conditions reports about the Bugs. Check this link often for some advice. |
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Craig |
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Thanks for all the beta everyone. I've been lurking on this thread with my first foray into the Bugs in about a month. I've got one off-topic question if you don't mind...what are you all doing for approach footwear? Some friends that went years ago said they were happy with gore-tex trail running shoes, trail gaiters and aluminum crampons. Seem reasonable or trail shoes too light duty in your opinion? |
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Jason Halladay wrote:Thanks for all the beta everyone. I've been lurking on this thread with my first foray into the Bugs in about a month. I've got one off-topic question if you don't mind...what are you all doing for approach footwear? Some friends that went years ago said they were happy with gore-tex trail running shoes, trail gaiters and aluminum crampons. Seem reasonable or trail shoes too light duty in your opinion?That was my plan this year however I'm rethinking my options given how the col condition appears to be a few weeks ahead of what it was last year. I'm leaning towards boots with aluminium pons now, perhaps it's worth taking both shoes and boots and making a judgement after talking with people already there. |
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i wore a pair of these on all approaches: |
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Thanks a ton, Jake wander, I appreciate the beta and info! |
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Based on recent reports it seems the SPC is melting out pretty early this year. Assuming the col is impassable (or very dangerous to ascend) in a few weeks I have a few questions: |
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Jason.cre: This should answer your questions. It's from facebook.com/bugaboofriends and it's another version of the photo that Jake posted above. |
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An ice screw or two is real nice to get started: |
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wrote up a trip report, thought it may be useful to some people who were headed there. |
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Interested in current conditions in the Bugaboos. Most recent MCR is from 6/5, so just looking for newer info. |
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6/26/16 mountainconditions.com/repo… |