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conditions in bugaboo

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Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

Im heading up to the bugs on friday and I was wondering if anyone knew what the conditions are looking like. Thanks.

cjdrover · · Watertown, MA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 355

We were there from 6/6-6/20.

Snow is melted out all the way to the Kain Hut and ~80% to Applebee. B-S Col was in good shape but the 'shrund is starting to open on the climber's left.

All in all it seems that conditions are more similar to early/mid July than late June. Get in there!

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

awesome thanks!

what routes did you get on? any of them still snowed in?

kevino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 0

bump for any more recent conditions. are pons needed, aka is the soft staying soft over night and not much glacier ice showing?? planning on having boots + axe. thanks.

Beean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

I saw some recent photos.

Snow on lower slopes of Bugaboo Spire, not much though and shouldn't cause any issues. B-S col looks in good condition, appears as if not much rock has been coming down it. Weather last week and this week has been very warm and rainy with no overnight freeze.

Kevino - I'd always take pons and an axe. Seen a few people get into real trouble on the B-S col. You can stash them at the col to collect on your way back.

kevino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 0

For those interested: Col still in good shape, firm-ish in the morning, sloppy in the afternoon. Cracks starting to open on both sides but no issues yet. Cracks opening at the bottom of pigeon.

jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10

Any updates on conditions?

Can you get away with a simplae pair of low-top approach shoes and strap on 'pons in the Bugs or do you need something more substantial?

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

I got back on July 4 so its been 9 days. Conditions change quick but idunno if anyone else will give you a more current report.

The Col was in wonderful shape when we got there. We were told that was as good as it gets. Kicked steps with very light mountaineering boots and pons. Glad I had my ice axe. By our final day on the trip the shrund was open maybe 4ft. a couple crevasses on the lower portion of the col were opening (2ft) and vising.

we also used the bugaboo glacier approach to get to pigeon. big crevasses but the snow bridges were solid. for sure rope up for this. it was a fun alternative to the col. but i enjoy glacier travel.

Craig.Aubuchon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

I'm also trying to plan a trip to the Bugs for mid-August and interested in conditions. As conditions worsen in the B-S col, is it still possible to climb a few of the moderate classics (West Ridge Pigeon Spire, Kain Route)? If so, how does one approach the climbs? And what is the biggest hazard - just rock fall in the col and soft snow bridges?

Thanks in advance -

Beean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
acmg.ca/mcr/

The Canadian guides often post conditions reports about the Bugs. Check this link often for some advice.
Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

Craig

alternatives to B-S Col

If the photo attached shows up in my post it will be helpful. We approached Pigeon spire twice. Once from the BS Col and once using the bugaboo glacier route. I found the glacier route to be more interesting and it is advertised as an alternative to the col. There are a lot of crevasses on the glacier, you would be crazy to take that route without roping up. Also, im not sure how much it deteriorates. but look into it when you get there, i enjoyed it.

rock fall, the schrund and crevasses are the biggest concern in the Col. even in the great condition it was in while we were there, we saw some 3ft diameter rocks come crashing down to the bottom. the schrun had opened a few feet across by the final day we were there, so it no doubt will be much bigger by august.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,143

Thanks for all the beta everyone. I've been lurking on this thread with my first foray into the Bugs in about a month. I've got one off-topic question if you don't mind...what are you all doing for approach footwear? Some friends that went years ago said they were happy with gore-tex trail running shoes, trail gaiters and aluminum crampons. Seem reasonable or trail shoes too light duty in your opinion?

Beean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
Jason Halladay wrote:Thanks for all the beta everyone. I've been lurking on this thread with my first foray into the Bugs in about a month. I've got one off-topic question if you don't mind...what are you all doing for approach footwear? Some friends that went years ago said they were happy with gore-tex trail running shoes, trail gaiters and aluminum crampons. Seem reasonable or trail shoes too light duty in your opinion?
That was my plan this year however I'm rethinking my options given how the col condition appears to be a few weeks ahead of what it was last year.

I'm leaning towards boots with aluminium pons now, perhaps it's worth taking both shoes and boots and making a judgement after talking with people already there.
Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

i wore a pair of these on all approaches:

rei.com/product/881741/sale…

they were nice for kicking steps and my feet were significantly more dry than my buddy who had to put soaked approach shoes on every morning.

i wore gators in the col and on bugaboo glacier but if you dont mind a little bit of snow on your socks you should be fine without.

for crampons i dont own a pair of aluminums so i just used my grivel g12s.

for pigeon spire, you can leave all your stuff at the bottom of the climb so weight wasnt an issue. for lions way i carried my axe and boots and had no problem with pack weight.

both times we descended the col, we did it without crampons. two 60m raps get you over the schrund then you just down climb the other half of the col. this would change if there were not enough snow or if the snow were harder.

hope some of that helps and feel free to ask any other questions. the beta i got off MP before the trip was very helpful so id be happy to return the favor.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,143

Thanks a ton, Jake wander, I appreciate the beta and info!

jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10

Based on recent reports it seems the SPC is melting out pretty early this year. Assuming the col is impassable (or very dangerous to ascend) in a few weeks I have a few questions:
1-Is it still possible to climb bugaboo spire and descend via the rappels down the bugaboo/snowpatch col? Do the rappels place you far enough down the call to make an easy decent after rapping?
2-Is crescent tower and crescent spire easily approached without glacier travel? Are others easily approached with deteriorating glacier conditions?

Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 401

Jason.cre: This should answer your questions. It's from facebook.com/bugaboofriends and it's another version of the photo that Jake posted above.

Alternatives to Bugaboo-Snowpatch col

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,143

An ice screw or two is real nice to get started:

Bugaboo Glacier entry, 8/12/2015

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

wrote up a trip report, thought it may be useful to some people who were headed there.

mountainproject.com/v/bugab…

Jarrod LaFountain · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

Interested in current conditions in the Bugaboos. Most recent MCR is from 6/5, so just looking for newer info.

Andrew Mayer · · Driggs, ID · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 131
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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