5.10-5.12 sports climbing near Denver

Hi guys,

We will fly to Denver in the afternoon of Jul-3rd and leave on Jul-7th. I'm leading 5.10-5.11 and my friend is leading 5.11-5.12. Sport climbing. Any kind of rock. easy approach.

Could you suggest where we should go to? I did some research and found it's difficult to decide. I was thinking of going Shelf road but seems it may be too hot in July? And how about the weather now? Seems it's pretty wet this year.

ps: we plan to camp.

Thanks!

Song

Shelf will be too hot. Your best bet is Boulder Canyon.Specifically the Sport Park for an easy approach, mild temps and bolts. There is also Clear Creek Canyon but Boulder Canyon may be a bit friendlier for your limits right now.
Enjoy your stay.

If you are camping then Devils Head may be your best bet. Free camping, higher altitude and better temperatures as well. Easy approach is the only thing you won't have, but the longer hikes are worth it.

Thanks, Jon and Glenn.

I will check Boulder Canyon and Devil's Head.

I second Devil's head for the camping. Really nice rock, not a lot of climbers, and absolutely beautiful! About an hour and half from Denver.

A follow up question: I noticed in devil's head , there's no water in the campsite...is there any campsite with water close by?

Thanks!

CCC is another fantastic option. The Highlander crag there is pretty good. Not a super great approach(20 minutes uphill)...but there are plenty of good routes there. Peer review, stellar line. Herb-a-med-veg-a-matic, also awesome.

Easter rock in Boulder Canyon is awesome, especially if you want to be hardmen for the day. Empire of the Fenceless is a pretty dang good 12a that you should try if you go there, even leading 5.11.

Animal world and blob rock are my next suggestions. Blob is one of my personal favorites. There is a 13 that has perma draws if your buddy is feeling hairy. Blob is mostly trad with mainly harder sport routes. There are a few 10s as well.

Conghui Song wrote:A follow up question: I noticed in devil's head , there's no water in the campsite...is there any campsite with water close by? Thanks!

Song, you will have to bring your own water. Stop by any grocery store on your way there and buy enough gallons of water to last you for your stay.
Also, if it is really hot check out the Shaft, Arena, Shady Lane and Hole in the Wall - they have shade and are climbable even when it is hot. Good luck with your trip!

Eliot, Glenn

Thanks a lot for the reply!

Looks like it will be a good idea to stay in the city instead of camping there. Don't want to climb three days without taking a shower...may not be allowed to enter the carbin of the return flight..
Should I just stay in Denver and visit each place for one day? Vacation is always too short!