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Best Guidebook for the Asheville, NC Area?

Original Post
Colonel Sandbag · · Boston, MA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 76

My parents just moved to Brevard. Visiting them in a few weeks. Looking for a guidebook that covers the sport climbing in the area. Currently, I'm planning on taking an inexperienced friend up to Stone Depot because that seems like the best and easiest bolted stuff. Any other areas you might suggest?

Regarding guidebooks, I think "Cedar Rock and Satellite Crags" seems like a good bet. Anything else I should check out?

webdog · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 0

That's your best bet. Might take a light rack to supplement: tcu's and small nuts/tri-cams. They might be bolted but expecting sport routes might get you in trouble. There are fun slab routes there from 5.4-5.8. Get an early start cause your approach will be 45min or so and hot slab sucks. 1 rope is usually doable but 2 makes it easier for some climbs. In Brevard Hit "The Hub" for beers/ mountain bikes or the new Oskar Blues Brewery. By the airport is Sierra Nevada

Colonel Sandbag · · Boston, MA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 76

Thanks for the speedy response, WD, and thanks for the heads up about the gear/heat. I was definitely thinking of being out of the house at the latest by 5:30, hopefully on the rock no later than 7/730. I definitely don't like climbing in the heat.

Some fora here on MP suggest that any rack whatsoever is unnecessary but I know you Southerners have a reputation for being bold sandbaggers. :)

I'm expecting run outs but I'm pretty confident that I can run up 5.6/7 slab with no issues, so I was getting comfortable treating it as a sport spot. Perhaps I'm wrong, though. Perhaps this is the time to start putting together a rack—I currently own no pro.

Colonel Sandbag · · Boston, MA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 76

Also, webdog, what sizes of nuts and tricams would you suggest for those climbs?

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I use pink, red, and the black one below the pink. Rarely really feel the need for any others although you can use them if you want.

webdog · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 0

The climbs where outward bound guides (stone depot) are pretty well bolted. Gear is sparse and you probably won't need it, however I suggested to bring some just in case. As an outsider coming to NC don't expect all slab routes to be that well protected. North by Northwest is a mellow multi pitch w great views of looking glass. A single set of TCU's and a black, pink, red tri-cam, couple shoulder length slings should be plenty ( to go along w your sport draws). I brought nuts the first time and haven't since. If you venture other than stone depot you'll prob need a heftier rack. Other places in NC I'll carry black thru brown or blue tricam w double pink/red.

If you come back in the fall then go on an adventure to Bonas Defeat Gorge in Panthertown valley near lake toxaway. 1hr+ bushwhack to get to 5.8 3pitch, 300ft climb in beautiful scenery. Until the stone depot routes were put up it was probably the best protected multi pitch in NC. A light rack of cams thru a #1 or 2, quick draws, couple shoulder slings and you're good. There are now a few 5.10 routes there as well
I forgot to plug the burrito joint right across from the college, it's solid and so is the breakfast place next door

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,039

Cathey's Creek crag should also be in that guidebook if I recall correctly. It has the closest thing to sport climbing in Brevard, though a single set of cams is a good idea. Routes are all harder, so not great for your inexperienced friend, but you might enjoy it.

The North Side of Looking Glass sports a decent boulder field. No really great beta for the place, but if you follow the trail almost to the base of the wall you'll find the boulders with chalk on them. You can explore from there.

Stone Depot is doable on just a set of quick draws, but you need to be prepared for healthy run-outs. Most of the routes in that area only take two or three additional placements on the entire climb besides what's already bolted. However, there are a couple spots where you could build alternate belays if you get there on a crowded day, so it could be worth bringing a few pieces. Also note that the morning is great there for temps as it's in the shade when you arrive but it will bake in the afternoon. The downside is that it tends to seep early in the day, which means you could be running it out on wet slab depending on route selection.

If none of that works out, Brevard also has a small climbing gym where you could get your fix.

Mike R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 2,768

If interested, Cedar Rock guides and Rumbling Bald guides are available at grounduppublishing.com.
Thanks for the recommendations above!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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