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What do you think about this piton? Would you trust your life with it?

Original Post
Mike Carrington · · Centenntial · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 2,776
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

As an aid piece? Sure.
Mid-pitch protection point? Maybe/probably, but with doubt.
As an anchor? If part of a multi-point anchor, if the others were good, sure, I'd be part of the system. As the sole or best anchor? Only in an emergency. And I'd tie it off at the surface of the rock, chains be damned.

But looking at the picture and taking the subject question into account, no, I certainly wouldn't want to "trust my life with it". More concerning than the leverage placed on it being that far out of the rock is the rust ring at the rock interface.

It's a sketch anchor in need of replacement.

Kevin Neville · · Oconomowoc, WI · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 15

Sling it much tighter to the rock face. Then, don't trust it in isolation, but it could have a role as part of a larger protection system.

David House · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 453

Garden of the Gods?

Paul Ross · · Keswick, Cumbria · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 22,236

Solid

Mike Carrington · · Centenntial · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 2,776

It is in Garden of the Gods and this piton is part of an anchor system. The system uses chain that are not equalized, this piton holds all of the weight in this system.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

I wouldn't trust it. It appears to be rusted near the hole. I've seen pitons in the Gunks (admittedly a much wetter place) that looked like that and had completely decomposed from rust inside their placements. A few light taps with a hammer and they fell apart and out.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

I'd tie it off near the drilled hole and call it good.

I can see in the picture it is part of an anchor station consisting of 2 pitons banged into drilled holes. Why the piton did not get set in deeper would be interesting information.

Edit; I just noticed Mikes second post above about this not being equalized and also now see you can zoom in on the photo and see the pin is not only rusted near the hole but deformed there as well. Bad initial placement and time has not helped. If you are looking for ammo to get this replaced I will add a vote.

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

There are multiple issue with that pin:

1) the pin is mashed (folded) at the eye, thus compromising the eye (it is subject to stress cracks)

2) the pin has rusted (not just surface rust) and is disintegrating - look closely where the pin goes into the hole one can see flakes of iron oxide.

3) the size of the hole is approximately the same diameter of the pin thus the pin probably has very little contact except at the beginning of the hole.

4) The pin is cantilevered.

IMHO an accident waiting to happen. What route is it on?

Tom A. · · Co. Springs · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 65

Did Harvey Carter do the first ascent? Might be time for a new one.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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