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Routes in The King Wall
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Another Wack and Dangle Job T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chronic Fixation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Four Guns Blazing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Keep, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kingdom Come S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Prince, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Royal Pain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Working Wives S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | 1989 Purcell, Mellor |
| Page Views: | 3,373 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Heckeler on Jul 7, 2012 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
P1 5.5G (50') - Up to ledge (or traverse from left on ledge), then up to a left facing corner. Climb the corner then traverse right to a bolted belay.
P2 5.7G (60') - Climb straight up, through overlap (crux), up to small roof (for gear), then step back down to make a couple moves left (more gear), then up and right on a ledge with a good belay at a left facing open book.
P3 5.7G (90') - (V1) Climb left side of flake, follow fingercrack up and left, along a ramp, up a shallow corner (sometimes wet) to a jutting rock. Behind this (crux), up and left through the roof. Travese left to belay/rap.
You will not reach the ground with a single rope rappel. Expect to use the rappel station about 50 feet below and right of the top rap station.
V1 5.9+R - Straight up black face (bolt). Use the handcrack in the roof to right leaning crack that cuts back left to a ledge and belay (80 feet). Up 5.7 slab (100 feet) to the top. The walkoff right is poor, so this doesn't get climbed much.
P2 5.7G (60') - Climb straight up, through overlap (crux), up to small roof (for gear), then step back down to make a couple moves left (more gear), then up and right on a ledge with a good belay at a left facing open book.
P3 5.7G (90') - (V1) Climb left side of flake, follow fingercrack up and left, along a ramp, up a shallow corner (sometimes wet) to a jutting rock. Behind this (crux), up and left through the roof. Travese left to belay/rap.
You will not reach the ground with a single rope rappel. Expect to use the rappel station about 50 feet below and right of the top rap station.
V1 5.9+R - Straight up black face (bolt). Use the handcrack in the roof to right leaning crack that cuts back left to a ledge and belay (80 feet). Up 5.7 slab (100 feet) to the top. The walkoff right is poor, so this doesn't get climbed much.
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