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Routes in South Summit Wall
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Be Here Now T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Center Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Da Black and Gold T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Expanding Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Free Mexican Air Force T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Gardner's Delight, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gold Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Escape, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Heart of Gold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Inner Vision T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Left Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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P-38 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Right Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Taivallista T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | S. Brigdon, J. Falls, T. Gregory, S. Ohkawa |
| Page Views: | 6,551 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | mountainsense on Aug 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
"Opener, Can, Hand, Folding, Type I" is how the military describes what is often called, "the best Army invention ever."
Indeed, the line was named after the can opener, but was, in fact, inspired by the passing of a climbing mentor, partner, and my close friend, Michael Brown. Like the can opener, Mike embodied many of its best traits--the P-38 is light, fast, compact and, perhaps, most importantly, cheap and reliable--all characteristics which serve to describe the alpinist he once was, and the philosophy he lived by.
The P-38 climbs the obvious, right-facing corner system at the far right margin of the recessed Gold Wall, just left of the prominent chimney that separates it from the South Summit Wall.
Climb the corner through a small roof, then belay at a stance (.10-). Pull the bulge above the belay, then follow a blocky "staircase" up and left past a pin and two bolts and into the dihedral above to a belay on a small ledge (.9+). Above the ledge, delicately change corners onto the face, into another right facing corner. Pull the bulge to a ledge, then climb the white slab above past a bolt then lieback a splitter corner to a stem box, then a belay (.10+).
Indeed, the line was named after the can opener, but was, in fact, inspired by the passing of a climbing mentor, partner, and my close friend, Michael Brown. Like the can opener, Mike embodied many of its best traits--the P-38 is light, fast, compact and, perhaps, most importantly, cheap and reliable--all characteristics which serve to describe the alpinist he once was, and the philosophy he lived by.
The P-38 climbs the obvious, right-facing corner system at the far right margin of the recessed Gold Wall, just left of the prominent chimney that separates it from the South Summit Wall.
Climb the corner through a small roof, then belay at a stance (.10-). Pull the bulge above the belay, then follow a blocky "staircase" up and left past a pin and two bolts and into the dihedral above to a belay on a small ledge (.9+). Above the ledge, delicately change corners onto the face, into another right facing corner. Pull the bulge to a ledge, then climb the white slab above past a bolt then lieback a splitter corner to a stem box, then a belay (.10+).
Location
The start of the P-38 is marked by a conspicuous, comma-shaped black diorite at the very mouth of the Gold Wall gully--the continuous corner system just left of this feature is the line. Rappel the route with a single 70m rope or scramble up the notch to the gain the ridge and the standard descent via the Collin's Highway.
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