Top 10 5.10s in Southern California

gription...... do we know each other????? I bet we both know many folks who live in Hi-desert, eastside....

Mike... just joking about death to frogs, I really love Willie, cut my sport climbing teeth at that place, I really hate the way the climbers got scammed by the CBD and the court system. The "study" about the frog still has not happened and that is the reason why it was shut down. And all the undergrad bio students have all graduated and gone on to jobs, at Monsanto chemical corp.

so back to on topic stuff.

Top 10 5.10 in So Cal.

let me think on that...

Riparian daydream in wheeler?
Haven't climbed it yet but it could go down this weekend. Looks good to me. Maybe a little chossy as it is still fairly new.

Guy Keesee wrote:gription...... do we know each other????? I bet we both know many folks who live in Hi-desert, eastside....

If not maybe we should meet. I was in the military for quite some time and spent 10 years away and not climbing. I have only returned to climbing since 2011 and really didn't get into the swing of things until 2013 when I got out of the Navy. I live 1/2 mile from 395 and across the street from my local crag. When it's too hot for there I go up to the Kern plateau or The Portal. Hit me up in a couple weeks, as I’m nursing a sprain at the moment

Jeremy
805.200.7689

Ah, I get it.
Its a climbing blog post on a beer website - thank you for not telling them where the actual good climbs are.

;)

Back on topic.. I'm just breaking into the grade, so what are the best, "off the beaten path" 5.10 trad climbs around here? Jtree, Tahquitz, anything in SD county, the San Bernardinos... I want to hear about stuff I can't find online!!

gription.... have you been to east side south? I ran into a big bunch bunch of Ridgecrest locals... two years ago. They were with Scott. Ill call you, your local crag is County Line????

OK here is my list:

Best 5.10s in Southern California. For this discussion I want to define Southern California as everything south of Mohave, CA. Some may quibble about the grade, but I go with what I remember and not the latest MP consensus. And before I get flamed, I have never done any of the roped up climbing in San Diego.

At Josh: Coarse and Buggy 10d
O’Kelleys Crack 10c

At Tahquitz and Suicide: Revelation 10a
Super Pooper 10b

Tunnel Rocks: Yosemite Sam’s Dinner Club Combo 10c/d

Spring Crag: The Bandwagon 10b

Malibu: Kathmandu 10a
Family Jewel 10c

Echo Cliffs: Death By Chocolate 10d
Blacklisted 10b

Guy Keesee wrote:gription.... have you been to east side south?

I know the locations of the East Side South Crags but have not been that way since the surge of activity that has recently taken place. I live in the far west side of the valley so getting over to that area takes about 45 minutes.

Guy Keesee wrote: Ill call you, your local crag is County Line????

I look forward to it. And yes County Line/Speedway Corridor and few other little gems are my local stomping ground. I live less than ten minutes from the trail head. Scott and I know many of the same people but have never actually met oddly enough though I have been climbing/living in the Indian Wells Valley on and off since 2000.

Look forward to getting together.

Willie has been a huge loss, really miss that place. I grew up climbing at Willie, my dad used to climb there in the 1960's and he started taking my brother and I climbing there in the late 70's. We used to camp in a cabin just up stream from the rock, only a cement foundation remains now of the cabin after wind storms and vandals destroyed it. I climbed mostly on trad gear there during the early 80's except for a few bolted runout routes I put up that I would not recommend now, unless you like climbing high above old button heads and Leeper Hangers. Sometime in the mid to late 80's I bought a Bosch drill and put up Next Generation on the Generation Wall, after that it was off to the races as far as route development goes. The route I am most proud of is one Troy and I did called Dancing In The Storm in the big chimney. I would rate that as one of the best climbs at Willie and one of the most enjoyable in So Cal but I'm biased.

I hope someday Willie can open again and I can take my two kids there just as my dad took my brother and I. Fingers crossed.

i really hope the op's list was a troll post...if it is not, i think you can do way better.

for instance: papa woolsey at josh? no mention of okellys, solid gold, illusion dweller, bird of fire, exorcist, heart of darkness, rubicon, clean and jerk, figures on a landscape, loose lady, perfect fingers?

also, coarse and buggy is not 5.10 last time i checked/climbed it

Kevin.... Hi, I was going to include Dancing, but I decided not to list climbs that were/are closed. Or I would include my own extra fine five star climb at Josh... "Energy Crisis" that is now sadly closed because of a petroglyth (sp) found close by.....

And to PKEDS.... Course and Buggy was 5.10D when I climbed it....whats it now????

Guy,
I have been going to the Tunnels to get out of the heat, fun stuff up there but not as good as Willie, close but not quite the same. I'll take what I can get and the tunnels have been a welcome addition to the area.

Jason Kim wrote:Back on topic.. I'm just breaking into the grade, so what are the best, "off the beaten path" 5.10 trad climbs around here? Jtree, Tahquitz, anything in SD county, the San Bernardinos... I want to hear about stuff I can't find online!!

Okay, here you go

get it?

;)

I've been on that one. It wasn't as good as advertised.

Jason Kim wrote:...I want to hear about stuff I can't find online!!

Three ways I know of. Explore, get out and see the places around you. Make friends with the locals, the old ones. Buy out of print guide books.