Looking for some beta on the Zipper. It was first free climbed in 1985 by Rob Robinson. It goes at 5.11d but seems so much harder. Anyone one else been on it?
What beta do you want? It was a long time ago I was on it, probably '93 or '94.
MD1
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Jun 25, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2015
· Points: 10
I aided it about 15 years ago just for the learning experience. I wouldn't even think about giving it a look until maybe Octoberbut if you're asking about the Zipper you're already well acquainted with the our particular brand of slimy summer heat.
According to the first edition of The Dixie Cragger's Atlas, Robinson rated it 11d/12a. That means it's at least that hard (dude was a prolific roof crack specialist.)
I don't recall too much, but that quartz like stuff was super slick. It was fall when I tried it and still too slick for me to jam. Tried to brute force my way through it but just couldn't stick. I don't remember any stopper moves though.
Easy to set up a top rope from the tree above. Also a couple bolts over the lip if I remember correctly. I visited several times before I had the nerve to lead it. Then I took a fall on last moves. Never went back to get the send. Tape up for sure, go when it's cold as shit to get every bit of friction you can. It's polished, quartzy like rock that is slick as shit. Mini version of champagne jam.
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