Quiet Crags at Devils Lake

What's up Wisconsin climbers? My wife and I are going to be at Devils lake for a couple of days next week. I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for areas with quality routes from 5.4 to 5.9 that were quiet. I've heard that some of areas, such as East Rampart can get pretty packed and I was trying to avoid that. We don't mind long approaches as long as it's worth the schlep. Thanks for your suggestions.

Go West! The West Rampart requires more slogging but is less crowded. I'd recommend the Lost Face. If you struggle to find it, you'll understand why it is Lost.

Some friends and I went to Porkchop Buttress on the West Bluff last summer, and that was sweet! A couple of good leads around 5.7ish. You approach it by hiking along the base and then up through the woods.

I'm a Craig. I'm pretty quiet.

We've had good luck heading further east from the east rampart - September wall, etc. Memorial day weekend when most of the east bluff looked like a gym with ropes up on every other line, but we didn't see a single other climber heading to the east of the quarry rocks.

Awsome. Thanks for the suggestions. Looking forward to checking this place out.

If you're there midweek, go to the East Rampart, there is a reason it's crowded on the weekends - it has, by far, the greatest concentration of quality climbing in the park and will be all but empty during the workweek. If you're there on the weekend and you desperately want to avoid crowds, check out some of the West Bluff Towers (Split, Great, Sun Top, etc...). The approaches aren't long per se, just indistinct. The towers feature some excellent climbing, and it'd be surprising to run into any congestion.

That said, I'd still consider the East Rampart, if indeed you find it too crowded, it's easy to make the transition to Major Mass/Minor Mass/Doorway Rocks - a close-knit group of areas loaded with classics, yet generally crowd free.

Horse Rampart is one of the best crags for those grades and there is never anyone there.

I'll second Horse/Birthday. Last Sunday the south shore was so packed they were parking out on the road (Father's Day), and we saw no one but ourselves.