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2015 Alpine Rock Conditions

Robert Buswold · · Northglenn, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 80

Hey guys, what's the latest on Keiners? Crampons/axe needed? Super wet? I'm hoping to get on it Friday with a friend.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130
Robert Buswold wrote:Hey guys, what's the latest on Keiners? Crampons/axe needed? Super wet? I'm hoping to get on it Friday with a friend.
In my opinion crampons and axe are still needed on most of the mountaineering style objectives on Long's. Be on it early and get off it sooner than later. The North Face snow conditions were deteriorating quickly yesterday late-morning.
Dave Bn · · Boise, ID · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 10

Unless you're linking Kieners with a lower east face route or rapping in from Chasm View (why would you), crampons and ice axe are a Kieners requirement 365 days a year - because, Lambslide.

Jason Brown · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 1,072

How does the right side of the diamond look, specifically hearts and arrows?

Kevin Zagorda · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 600

Taken Tue June 23

June 23

Jun 23

Tom Fralich · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

We did the northeast ridge on Sharkstooth on 6/24 and it was awesome. The route and the rappels are totally dry. Snow starts around the Andrews Creek campground, and is then mostly continuous from the start of the Gash. We used crampons on the approach on the steeper parts, especially the last slope leading up to the start of P1. We left crampons and axes at the base of the route. After the rappels, we stayed close to the rocks to contour back to our stuff. It was tedious, but the snow would have been treacherous, even with axes/crampons. We downclimbed facing in with crampons/axes for the steep part right below P1 with no problems. Snow was balling in the crampons, so facing out was not an option.The rest of the descent was fast with no crampons and some fun glissading. I'd say, take crampons for sure. The axe was only helpful for the 100 ft of downclimbing right under the start of the route. We left the bivy at 5:00, climbing at 6:45, summit at 9:45, back to the base at noon.

MtnLife · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 45

Has anyone climbed Kor's door recently? Wondering if the 5.9 pitches are dry by now. Also would crampons and an ice tool be necessary for the approach of we linked upper Kieners and rapped the cables route?

Thanks,

Ryan

Eric Klammer · · Eagle, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 2,070
MtnLife wrote:Has anyone climbed Kor's door recently? Wondering if the 5.9 pitches are dry by now. Also would crampons and an ice tool be necessary for the approach of we linked upper Kieners and rapped the cables route? Thanks, Ryan
You're definitely going to want at least an axe with you. The Cables Route/the North Face in general is still almost completely snow covered. Down climbing the upper portion to get to the rappels would be terrifying without the right gear.
Guy H. · · Fort Collins CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 8,318
Eric Klammer wrote: You're definitely going to want at least an axe with you. The Cables Route/the North Face in general is still almost completely snow covered. Down climbing the upper portion to get to the rappels would be terrifying without the right gear.
I second that recommendation. The snow is quite steep in that section of the wall. Having done it a couple times, I will always bring an axe and some sort of spikey footwear.
Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130
MtnLife wrote:Has anyone climbed Kor's door recently? Wondering if the 5.9 pitches are dry by now. Also would crampons and an ice tool be necessary for the approach of we linked upper Kieners and rapped the cables route? Thanks, Ryan
Kor's Door looked dry. It's a prominent buttress that surprisingly doesn't see a ton of run-off (like the rest of the Lower East Face). Definitely take an axe/pons with you. It would be quite the time without them.
Ellen.tradgirl · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 5
TJ Brumme · · Marrakech · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,648

Anyone know the conditions of the black wall?

Jordan Winters · · Minturn, CO · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 190

Wondering if the Culp-Bossier is good to go? Also, curious if the descent down the first buttress on Hallett is snow free? Thx

Catt Marpenter · · Fayetteville, WV · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Hey folks, did casual route yesterday. NOT casual yet! The route is receiving significant snow runoff from the top and is under constant flow of water. All the pitches after the pitch 2 traverse are very wet. We climbed on despite the conditions with the use of much aid and French free. The runoff seems to be only affecting routes in the middle of the diamond. Right and left looked good and dry. We descended the keyhole, lots of soft snow all the way down the trough, somewhat of a posthole nightmare later in the day. Recommend rappel. Whichever you choose, I recommend an ax, but we felt fine without crampons on both ascent up the glacier and descent down the keyhole. (Gaiters would have been nice for the descent)

We also did petit grepon a few days ago. Totally dry and good to go. Felt fine without an ax on the descent but there is still a lot of snow crossing Andrew glacier and the gash.

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41

Has anyone been into Wild Basin recently? Specifically, the trail from Sand Beach Lake to the south side of Pagoda Mountain?

Eric Klammer · · Eagle, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 2,070
mark felber wrote:Has anyone been into Wild Basin recently? Specifically, the trail from Sand Beach Lake to the south side of Pagoda Mountain?
Yup, was up there last Thursday actually! The approach is good to go, if not exactly easy to "onsight". No snow but plenty of runoff still coming down the valley/basin you have to cross so be prepared to have wet feet by the time you are to Pagoda as it can get pretty swampy. Otherwise, Crescent Ridge is looking great but bring an axe for the way down. The col between Pagoda and Longs is still very snowy and it would be possible but difficult and possibly dangerous to descend the edges of the snowfield.

Yeehaw, get stoked!

S Face of Long's.

Crescent (South) Ridge of Pagoda! June 25th, 2015.
Dougald MacDonald · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 842
TBrumme wrote:Anyone know the conditions of the black wall?
If you mean the Black Wall on Mt. Evans, the road is closed. There was significant damage to the road this winter/spring, and it is not expected to open until at least the end of July. You can walk to the Black Wall via Chicago Lakes or from Guanella Pass. At least a 3-hour approach, so you can expect some solitude.
mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41

Eric, thanks for the info. I've got Thurs. & Fri. off, we'll see what happens.

CanDillo · · The Great State -Colorado · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 280

It's been said here a few times. But in case someone missed it. Cathedral Spires area climbing is dry and in excellent shape. Still a decent amount of snow starting on the approach from Skypond trail sign to moraine. However, I did it in approach shoes and with no axes or poles. Got on the Sabre and was clean and splitter.

Southwest Corner on the Sabre, RMNP.

Skypond approach to Cathedral Spires.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

Had the pleasure of being the only party on the Petit yesterday. Which really baffled me, the weather threatened, but never materialized. This was a welcomed change from the last time I did the South Face with like four other parties.

The one bummer part of yesterday, was on the descent when I went to retrieve our approach shoes and my ice axe (which I didn't really need). After I unclipped the approach shoes from the axe, I set it down to put my shoes on when some loose rocks tumbled down and dislodged the axe, knocking it down into the Randkluft between the snowfield and the face.

After trying a variety of shenanigans to reach the axe, I was forced to give up and wait for more snow to melt to retrieve it.

If any of ya'll happen to be up there before me and find the axe, I'd handsomely reward you for its return. Here's a picture showing where the axe fell.

Lost axe.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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