longest fall on a micronut?

Took about a 20-25 footer in Zion on the fourth? smallest black diamond micro nut. Really really bad placement (Think only half the nut in contact with the rock). But it held after the screamer deployed, only after daisy falling on the previous piece and zipping it put.

In my experience you don't have to be that far above your last piece to end up 10-15 feet below your pro. With your feet 3 feet above your pro, 50 feet in your system and some slack in the rope is all it takes.

Beean wrote:Around FF 1.5, my climber fell to just above the ground, maybe around 5-6 metres.

I don't see how you can take a FF 1.5 and be just above the ground unless you were on the second pitch and the first pitch was very short (like less than 5 meters). For a FF>1, you end up below the belay. Maybe you mean a fall factor just less than 1?

Eli Buzzell wrote:Based on these posts I often wonder if rock climbers, similar to how fisherman exaggerate fish stores, exaggerate whipper stories.

Bingo

Really ? I'd be happy to list a few routes for you to check out...and I don't fish

john strand wrote:Really ? I'd be happy to list a few routes for you to check out...and I don't fish

I wasn't referring to you John. We haven't met, but I know my history and know who you are. I don't doubt that you've taken the falls that you stated. I was responding to the general bluster of some of the other posts.

If you've got any horror show recommendations, send them my way. I enjoy that kind of stuff.

OK no problem..there's a huge number of factors involved hear...rope stretch, belays getting hauled around etc...a real 30 footer on anything smaller than a #4 RP will most likely break or shred the placement. On a slab i might say $3

This goes for good rock... i like brass way more than steel nuts,,they always seem to seat better

Of course small nuts don't weigh much,, carry a double set and place more !

Jon Clark wrote: I wasn't referring to you John. We haven't met, but I know my history and know who you are. I don't doubt that you've taken the falls that you stated. I was responding to the general bluster of some of the other posts. If you've got any horror show recommendations, send them my way. I enjoy that kind of stuff.

Ok ok.. I fixed my post to reflect the truth. I get it.. There's no 000 C3. My bad homes! I don't own C3s and it was a minute ago.

Bill M wrote:In my experience you don't have to be that far above your last piece to end up 10-15 feet below your pro. With your feet 3 feet above your pro, 50 feet in your system and some slack in the rope is all it takes.

I was definitely sobered by this reality when I started doing some practice falls in the gym (outside I've just been avoiding falling, which has its own limitations). That ledge down there is closer than you think.

Optimistic wrote: I was definitely sobered by this reality when I started doing some practice falls in the gym (outside I've just been avoiding falling, which has its own limitations). That ledge down there is closer than you think.

on trad climbs with rope drag its different .. the gym tends to be as frictionless an environment you can get

outside on less than vertical trad ... rope stretch is a bigger factor often

as to WHIPPAHS ... the DMM peanuts are much more durable than the brass offsets ... its all in the kinking of the wires

green peanut

DMM gray brass offset

;)

A lot of these don't sound like "micronuts" to me. #1 Dmm walnut? Not a micro, I've gone big on that piece, several times. Largest peenut? Same deal, not a micro.

for me, micro starts around a #4BD, #4DMM brassie offset, and similar. I've snapped the cable on the smallest DMM brass offset, in a pretty short fall (but I was also re-belaying while solo aiding and so even though I was 70+' off the belay, effectively only had ~10ft of rope in the system).

On the flip side, I went about 20 onto a #3 brass offset that had about half the nut outside the crack (very shallow placement) that I was positive would blow...and it held.

For sure some of my most memorable leads have been pitches with a lot of intricate micro placements where protecting the pitch is way more challenging than climbing it.

I fell on Point Break in Eldorado Canyon onto a #2 RP that caught my fall. I fell about 10-15' and we were using half ropes. The RP was cleanable but the brass was a little mangled.

Bill Kirby wrote: Ok ok.. I fixed my post to reflect the truth. I get it.. There's no 000 C3. My bad homes! I don't own C3s and it was a minute ago.

There's definitely a 000 C3

000 c3

Optimistic wrote: There's definitely a 000 C3

Damn it!! Now I gotta fix that sh@t again.. I gotta stop worrying what MFos be thinking too

Ryan-Nelson wrote:25ish ft. Had two separate #1 RPs (direct aid only pieces) equalized. The fall snapped one of the RPs wires, and the other one caught me. Thank god...

In the interest of really beating this subject into the ground, how did you equalize them? It was actually a thread on here about equalizing crappy pro that inspired me to start this thread.

Ryan-Nelson wrote: I was going to mention that in my post above. Overhand knot on a double length and also for the record I had the sling already tied, before committing to the move. Had rehearsed the gear before attempting a redpoint. If I would have tried to onsight the route I would have probably used 2 separate shoulder lengths with added twists around one end of the carabiners to shorten one side up.

Thanks Ryan.

This is the other thread I mentioned previously, about equalization...
mountainproject.com/v/equal…

john strand wrote:Really ? I'd be happy to list a few routes for you to check out...and I don't fish

All in jest my friend. I do like scary routes from time to time though, so I'll gladly take recommendations.

A couple of quotes from my long time partner Tom Callaghan..the master of brass-

"bomber #1 RP" well he didn't fall and it didn't come out on its own so....

This RP is bomber,unless it comes out !

They all suck, but I put in 5

Xam wrote: I don't see how you can take a FF 1.5 and be just above the ground unless you were on the second pitch and the first pitch was very short (like less than 5 meters). For a FF>1, you end up below the belay. Maybe you mean a fall factor just less than 1?

You are indeed correct, I dun fooked up.

climbing friend,

If your nuts are sadly of micro size, you hopefully will have the two nuts side by side together to be put to greater use. Dangling the pair into a crack together will do a greater job than just the one tiny nut.