Some one gluing on holds.

I hope this has been done out of ignorance, but somebody has glued on about 4 foot holds up AF canyon. They didn't even do a good job hiding it.

I intend to remove the foot holds, but i'm not sure what would be the best way, i was just thinking of using a chisel and hammer, but I worry that would leave an even uglier mess of glue on the rock.

Also somebody has been carving problem grades on house boulder, I don't know if this is going on else where in the canyon, has anybody else seen this else where.

American Fork Canyon-"Keeping the Sika Corporation in Business for 30 years"

Good luck on your quest, you certainly have your work cut out for you-a veritable lifetimes worth of glue removal awaits thee..

A hammer and chisel should do the job. I've also found that a good sturdy wire brush does a decent job removing extra glue.

I recently switched to glue ins and when glue drips and you don't notice you have to get it off somehow. Just be delicate with the hammer and you shouldn't have a problem.

Is this on a new route? An existing route? Recently done?

Half the classics in AF are glued-together chosspiles.

jacob m s wrote:I hope this has been done out of ignorance, but somebody has glued on about 4 foot holds up AF canyon. They didn't even do a good job hiding it. I intend to remove the foot holds, but i'm not sure what would be the best way, i was just thinking of using a chisel and hammer, but I worry that would leave an even uglier mess of glue on the rock. Also somebody has been carving problem grades on house boulder, I don't know if this is going on else where in the canyon, has anybody else seen this else where.

Hey thanks for the advice I took the glued on holds off today, they didn't clean the rock before they glued them on so it didn't even stick . . . Its an old rout and I climbed it this spring and they glued on holds where there. I think somebody even added a new bolt at eye level.

Next time i'm nearby I will make a short stop with my wire brush to try to get off the last little bit of the glue.

What area/ route was this? The practice of using glue to fix broken holds in AF is part of the local ethics... the majority of the climbs in the canyon wouldn't exist if it weren't for glued on holds.

Sounds like S.O.P. why pit your self agains the culture?