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Guidebooks for Boulder area

Original Post
jdgoblue · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

Hey everyone, I'm 100% sure this has been asked before but I had some trouble finding it so I'll ask again.

I'm moving out to Boulder this summer and starting to get pretty psyched! Just hoping I could get some suggestions on guidebooks to buy. I mostly boulder/sport climb if that helps. I know boulder canyon has a a ton, is there a particular guidbook that is suggested for that?

Any suggestions for both bouldering and sport climbing would be greatly appreciated!

jdgoblue · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

Awesome thanks! Is that one bouldering, sport, and trad?

I'll buy it either way just curious if I should look for more books.

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,381

It is bouldering, sport, and trad. There are some errors so I would use Mountain Project too.

Andy Bandos · · CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 760

Steve Levin's 'Eldorado Canyon Climbing Guide' is probably one of the finest guidebooks around.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

The FIxed Pin Flatirons book covers several hundred sport routes in the Flatirons.

The D'Antonio book (Wolverene, I believe) covers much (but certainly not all) of Boulder Canyon, but it has a lot of errors and can be confusing in several ways at some crags. This has been addressed on this site in some detail. Many of us are still waiting/hoping for a more complete and higher quality publication. Perhaps a 3rd edition would add routes and address the errors.
That said, it is the most complete book in terms of the 'Modern' (Y2k and after) sport routes installed.

Sharp End's N. Table Mountain book gives some nice winter opportunities if you like Basalt. 30 min drive South from Boulder

Sharp End's St Vrain Canyons book (Gillett) covers a lot of sport and mixed climbing on the more lonely and obscure granite 30 min drive North of Boulder that is well worth visiting.

Clear Creek Canyon has an updated book available now with several hundred more routes on the steep granite there. That's a Fixed Pin book as well. Maybe 30-50 min drive South and West from Boulder to get to the crags, generally speaking.

There are a few options to the rather limited sport climbing available at Lumpy Ridge. Most of the climbing there is trad, and the new Fixed Pin book by R. Rossiter is focused on the high peaks areas, I believe. So that leaves you with some older choices that are somewhat period-pieces. But they are not bad.

And if you want to go a little further and climb fairly hard - the South Platte 2nd volume (Thunder Ridge and Turkey Rock) or the Empire Rising guides (Ra and Halidome) offer some premium and even several-pitch routes within 1.5-2.5 hours drive.

Best of luck/Best of times!

jdgoblue · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

This is great Tony thank you for the reply!

I had an Amazon gift card so I already bought the D'Antonio book. I'll for sure look into the others.

This is a good resource too for anyone looking for guidebooks on Colorado, although a lot of the books are out of date it seems.

mountainproject.com/books/1…

Nate Allen · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 15

If you're a member of the American Alpine Club you can check out guidebooks from the library for free. The library is in Golden so you could pick up a book out here or they'll mail it to you for free and you just have to mail it back. I use the library all the time, it's a great resource.

Hiro Protagonist · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290

Nate - kudos, good advice for jdgoblue.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
Andy B wrote:Steve Levin's 'Eldorado Canyon Climbing Guide' is probably one of the finest guidebooks around.
And BTW, I totally agree... but that isn't what I'd do if I were mostly a sport climber.
jdgoblue · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

Awesome info everyone thanks.

Anyone have a link to the Fixed Pin Flatirons book that Tony B mentioned?

All I can find is this one - stores.sharpendbooks.com/cl…

I looked on the FIxed Pin Publishing site and didn't see it.

Also, is this Sharp End book for bouldering the front range any good? stores.sharpendbooks.com/co…

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
jdgoblue wrote:Awesome info everyone thanks. Anyone have a link to the Fixed Pin Flatirons book that Tony B mentioned? All I can find is this one - stores.sharpendbooks.com/cl… I looked on the FIxed Pin Publishing site and didn't see it. Also, is this Sharp End book for bouldering the front range any good? stores.sharpendbooks.com/co…
I goofed.
I refer to the Sharp End one as a FP book because the author of the SE book is the owner of FP. Long story I won't be telling anyway... but he was my climbing partner at the time (before I slowed down...) Anyway, that;s the one. Get it, it is a great book.
jdgoblue · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

Oh I see that makes, thanks for the info! This has been a great help.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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