The Cormier-Magness Indirect
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
Type: | Trad, 380 ft (115 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | FRA: Magness and McCoy, 6/15 |
Page Views: | 3,400 total · 32/month |
Shared By: | chris magness on Jun 15, 2015 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A two pitch variation to The Cormier-Magness.
Climb CM's first five pitches. After the Northwest Passage, walk climber's right 20' and reset the belay in a low horizontal.
Pitch 1, Gritty McDuff, 5.7
Step up and right from the belay and follow a slab straight up passing two bolts before joining the Low Beer Light pitch (approx 50'). The climbing eases as you approach the no-fall zone. A little spicy toward the top of the slab on mellow terrain. 180'
Pitch 2, The Chaser, 5.10
From Low Beer Light's tree, step down a few feet and right. Straight up again over an obvious bulge. Pass two bolts before joining the Platinum Slab (approx 30'). A smidge stiffer than Interloper's first pitch. 190'
Rock quality on both pitches is superb as is the climbing. I didn't scrub at all; traffic will clean things up. If the variations were longer and more independent, the star quality would be higher.
As per usual: free and on lead.
A long draw on the first bolt of each pitch should help with drag.
Climb CM's first five pitches. After the Northwest Passage, walk climber's right 20' and reset the belay in a low horizontal.
Pitch 1, Gritty McDuff, 5.7
Step up and right from the belay and follow a slab straight up passing two bolts before joining the Low Beer Light pitch (approx 50'). The climbing eases as you approach the no-fall zone. A little spicy toward the top of the slab on mellow terrain. 180'
Pitch 2, The Chaser, 5.10
From Low Beer Light's tree, step down a few feet and right. Straight up again over an obvious bulge. Pass two bolts before joining the Platinum Slab (approx 30'). A smidge stiffer than Interloper's first pitch. 190'
Rock quality on both pitches is superb as is the climbing. I didn't scrub at all; traffic will clean things up. If the variations were longer and more independent, the star quality would be higher.
As per usual: free and on lead.
A long draw on the first bolt of each pitch should help with drag.
12 Comments