Climbing in Corsica

Hello fellow climbers,

What are some of the better places to climb (6b - 10 c/d range) in Corsica?

Thanks.

Brian

Depends on what you are looking for...

The most well known area for climbing in Corsica is a region called Bavella ("Bavedda" as written and said in Southern Corsica). This is in the southern part of the island. The mountains here are absolutely stunning. Granite.
There are long multipitch routes, both bolted and traditional. Though it should be noted that the bolting is often spaced out and depending on who and when the route was established a small rack of friends is generally taken on bolted routes. The guidebook, BAVEDDA by Jean-Louis Fenouil will generally say something vague like "un petit jeu de friends pour completer les fissures" or "a small rack of friends to protect the cracks" for a bolted route that calls for a little gear. You just have to brink some friends and go for it.

On the whole, but there are obviously exceptions, routes here will be either slab or crack climbing (or both). The ultra classic route here is, Le dos d'elephant (The Elephant's Back), bolted. I've never climbed it but looked at it the day before yesterday. Long slab route that was retro bolted but still has a reputation for being a little "R" depending on what your definition of that is. I think there might be one pitch of 6b at the beginning but after that it doesn't get harder then 6a+. Falling not recommended.
If you are looking for out of this world rock formations, with summits that have views of the sea, I strongly recommend Bavella. At the col (pass) of Bavella there the Auberge (Refuge/Restaurant). Good food, gite to rent to stay etc.

There are tons of options for cragging in Bavella too. For single pitch stuff get your hands on the guidebook, Falaises de Corse by Thierry Souchard. The new edition just came out this year, a lot of work went into it! Equally, there is the multipitch guidebook written by Thierry for multipitch routes in Corsica (including Bavella), called, Grandes Voies de Corse. Definitely worth getting.

The rest of the island has great climbing too. Again, it depends on what you are looking for...

Restonica Valley, just above the town of Corte, is a beautiful area. There are numerous crags from the bottom of the valley until the very top. Granite. The cragging here tends to be pretty difficult with the exception of the area named Sorbellu. Here you can find some more moderately graded stuff. The must do route in Restonica is a multi pitch route named "Symphonie D'Automne". Entirely bolted, it goes at 6a+ and is situated over an alpine lake. Just google "Symphonie d'Automne Corse" and check out the photos and you will want to go there and climb it. There is a bit of an approach (1hr/1h30) but mind that this is hiking in Corsica which is awesome. Take a small amount of gear though, the route is only six pitches long but with a little gear you can go to the summit of this formation and this section doesn't get harder than 5/5c. Again, you will want the guidebooks Grandes Voies de Corse/Falaise de Corse by Thierry Souchard.

In the northern part of the island you can climb long multipitch routes in an Alpine setting in a region called Asco and Paglia Orba. Extremely rugged and amazing terrain. Some of the earliest routes established in Corsica are found here, an example would be the Finch Route on Paglia Orba (5+).

The island is dotted with crags here and there. Near Bastia, the northern capital, the best crags are Pignu (Les Antennes) and Altiplano. There are located relatively close together and are very different in nature.

Pignu will have more of a selection with new sectors having been recently developed and lots of routes in 6b and easier range. This crag is southwest facing and is situated at the top of the drainage divide of the Cape of Corsica (Cap Corse). This means you have stunning views of northwestern Corsica from the beaches of Balagna to the high mountains of Asco and Restonica. Breathtaking. Send your route as the sun is setting over the Mediterranean Sea, not bad, not bad at all.

Alitplano has less of a selection but is a lot different in style. The limestone here is much more compact where as Pignu is metamorphic (I think). For Altiplano think typical bullet limestone. I haven't climbed here in over a year but I remember the routes here being bouldery. Worth a visit for sure.

The list goes on and on... like I said, get your hands on a copy of Falaise de Corse by Thierry Souchard for cragging and Grandes Voies de Corse for multipitch routes.

Let me know if you have any questions, I am happy to help out.

Have a great trip,

Tim

Hi everybody,

nothing to add to tim comments, they show a corsica practice as extensive than mine after 5 or 6 trips. Corsica is great particlarly in spring and fall (less crowdy and fat tourists)

One tip if you plan to spend more than two weeks. Sardinia is very close (1 hour of boat) and in the region of Nuoro (see Maurizio oviglia guidebook) there is a plenty of limestone multipitche routes in the level you are looking for. The approaches are less strenuous than the one in corsica. One again, fall and spring are the best period, in summer it's really hot
Let me know if you need info.

Pierre

Hi everybody,

nothing to add to tim comments, they show a corsica practice as extensive than mine after 5 or 6 trips. Corsica is great particlarly in spring and fall (less crowdy and fat tourists)

One tip if you plan to spend more than two weeks. Sardinia is very close (1 hour of boat) and in the region of Nuoro (see Maurizio oviglia guidebook) there is a plenty of limestone multipitche routes in the level you are looking for. The approaches are less strenuous than the one in corsica. One again, fall and spring are the best period, in summer it's really hot
Let me know if you need info.

Pierre

Hi everybody,

nothing to add to tim comments, they show a corsica practice as extensive than mine after 5 or 6 trips. Corsica is great particlarly in spring and fall (less crowdy and fat tourists)

One tip if you plan to spend more than two weeks. Sardinia is very close (1 hour of boat) and in the region of Nuoro (see Maurizio oviglia guidebook) there is a plenty of limestone multipitche routes in the level you are looking for. The approaches are less strenuous than the one in corsica. One again, fall and spring are the best period, in summer it's really hot
Let me know if you need info.

Pierre

Besides Bavella, Mont Gozzi has some great routes in that grade range.

Restonica, especially up high.

Cuccia.

Thanks for all the beta folks!

Hey Tim, thanks for all the information on climbing in Corsica. The wife and I decided to hold off until fall or next spring to explore Corsica. We are looking at climbing Bavella and Mont Gozzi (thanks Brian in SLC!). Hey Pierre, We are definitely looking at Sardinia as well. Cheers!

Brian

No Worries! It's my pleasure.

For your information, at Gozzi there is a large flake (like Mastodon sized flake!!!) that is dangerously looming above many of the classic multipitch routes in the "Grand Vire" (Big Ledge) sector of the cliff. Access to this sector of the mountain is forbidden at the moment, and quite frankly, in Corsica you never know how long it will take for something to be done about it. The mayor has to approve a bunch of stuff, then they have to block the area off with police while the Gendarmes go and blow the thing up....so yeah.

But, there are still a ton of great routes there that are still good to go. Remember that Gozzi is low elevation and mostly south facing. I've climbed there in the summer and it is something I won't do again. Beware of wind too.

Bavella is higher in elevation and will be much more generous with aspect and route options. You can play cat and mouse with the weather here too, as the area has a large elevation gain/loss between the highest and lowest parts.

like this page on Facebook, the page for the topo by Thierry. Latest updates, route information etc. Pictures and beta to keep you psyched until your trip.

facebook.com/pages/Escalade…

-Tim

Second the Restonica Valley. Good roadside cragging there.

good to help you,

Some tips on Bavella.

- Good campground in Solenzara "Al sole", to the beach - 30 mn from bavella pass.
- The approaches ! sometime very awkward, no real pathway in the bush (le maquis in french) - Take it in account and wear a pant, no shorts!
- to do absolutely, teghie liscie area (you can't miss it on right hand side when driving from solenzara), hard enough, some runnouts and off with. Stellar!

have a good time.

Pierre