Top Rope Solo - Rope set up

I'm looking to teach myself how to top rope solo as a means of working a hard project alone.

I intend to practice for a few weeks on a local 5m bolted wall first to make sure I'm confident with everything before getting on the wall proper. I intend to follow the approach described here: climbing.com/skill/solo-top…

My question is around the initial rope set up. Below is what I am thinking, and would be keen to hear if anyone sees any major issues with the set up.

There are two ring bolts at the top of the route in question, about 1 foot below the top of the face. There are another two ring bolts about 5 meters back from the edge.

---- Rope set up ----
1. Hike to the top of the route and run a 60m dynamic rope through the two ring bolts 5m back from the edge, knot the ends, then throw them down.
2. Rappel down to the two ring bolts 1 foot below the top of the face, using an ATC and prussik back up.
3. Girth hitch two slings through my tie in loops and attaching one to each ring bolt using locking biners.
4. Take up some slack in each strand above my ATC/prussik, and tie a double figure eight (bunny ears) into each strand. My ATC/prussik are still connected to both strands below the bunny ears.
5. Clip a locking biner to each ring bolt and clip the bunny ears through the two lockers so that each strand is redundant to both bolts.
6. Pull the two strands taught below the bunny ears so I'm weighting the rope again on my ATC/prussik, below the bunny ears.
7. Remove my personal slings/lockers so I'm just on the ATC/prussik.
8. Rappel to the bottom of the route and set up my top rope solo with two progress capture devices on one line, and backing up with alpine butterflies in the second line.
9. Climb to the top of the route.

---- Rope removal ----
10. Connect directly to the bolt rings 1 foot below the top of the face, using slings and lockers.
11. Remove my progress capture devices.
12. Connect my ATC/prussik to both strands below the bunny ears.
13. Untying the bunny ears and pulling the slack through so I'm weighting the ATC/prussik.
14. Removing my personal slings/lockers from the two bolts and rappelling to the bottom, untying my back up knots as I go.
15. Pulling the rope down after me.

Again, would be keen to hear people's thoughts on this system and if they see any major issues.

Thanks!

I'd go simpler, but what you've described sounds fine enough to me :)

Instead of two devices on one line, and a second line of butterflies, I put one device on each line (as for device selection, I'm happy with anything Petzl suggests fit for self belaying*)

Using butterflies is a pain. It's much nicer if you don't have to do anything other than climb the pitch.

And just a trivial opinion:
Now supposing I was doing your route, with one device on each line. If the face bolts looked good, I'd be happy with just an alpine butterfly to one bolt instead of the bunny ears. If a bolt blows the other device will catch, if it doesn't for some reason (both those events happening together seems suitably unlikely to me) the remaining device will still catch you, after the slack has gone out of the 10m of rope running over the edge. I'd prefer that because I could set it up faster, and it would look cleaner and more obvious to me.

After a few days you'll quickly find out what you like and dislike.

• petzl.com/en/Sport/Appendix…

Thanks for the climbing.com link to information. It is very well written and acknowledges a variety of good setups.

I agree you could simplify, but you are on the right track.

I tie a butterfly knot in the middle of a dynamic rope and use onE device (Grigri) on the working line, and tie butterfly knots to clip as protection on the other side of the line making it the 'safety'.

FWIW: I practiced and practiced near the ground for a long time before I committed to TR solo.

Be mindful of the additional risk you assume when doing this activity.

Tell others you intend to TR solo and when they should expect you to return or call to let you know you are okay.

Wear a whistle (not around your neck) when you TR solo. If you get stuck, you may need to hail someone for assistance.

--edited to correct typo and identify device used for self-belay

Don't waste your time, you aren't going to do a hard project on top rope solo. If you are able to do the route that way it isn't going to be a "hard project" for you.

Given I guess you could maybe work parts of it so you are taking fall after fall to practice a section of the route with a set backup. But to pull the slack and safely protect falls with a backup isn't going to work for something at your limit.

Thanks for the responses all.

R M -
- Good idea, I think I will lose the butterflies and use a progress capture on each line.
- I think I'll stick with the bunny ears as I find them quick to tie. Also I was hoping to avoid tying off the line onto the bolts 5m back, to make cleaning easier/quicker at the end. If I was tying off the rope to the bolts 5m back, then I like your idea of butterflies to the top rings on the face.

Bill -
- Thanks for the advice. I do intend on practicing on low and easy routes until I feel really confident and have played with a few 'trouble' scenarios.
- I always tell my wife which crag I'm heading to and when to expect me home. Given I'll be on my own though you've given me a good idea to tell her who to call if I don't show and if she can't get me on my mobile (a local climber friend or the ranger).
- Good idea about the whistle too. There's often dog walkers at the crag, even after dark, so would be a good idea if my mobile failed in an incident.

ViperScale -
- It's a grade 27 sport route. I'm using a micro traxion and microcender and from the one time I've practiced with them so far they track really well on their own with no need for pulling slack as you climb.

I think the Kong Duck is the best top rope solo decide out there

Grade 27? Not from NSW by any chance are you?

i wouldn't listen to viperscale. I have done several projects like this. In fact top rope solo can be such a pain it can feel easier on lead when completed, especially if overhung. In fact i think parts of the dawn wall were practiced this way.

one more tip. If your project is overhung clip the draws going down when setting up the route. It is a pain to unclip as your climbing, but you find your clipping stances and if you come off you can get back on the wall.

good luck

The most important thing in my experience is having a good bail strategy and a easy way of transferring your weight off the progress capture to set up the rappel.

If for some reason you can't make it through the crux having an ascender and a foot loop/prusik/aider of some sort will make your life much easier.

Also if for some reason you get hurt or tweak a finger and can't climb anymore make sure you have a way to go in direct somewhere along the route and transfer your weight off the progress capture to bail.

I use the Petzl microcender and Micro Traxion. The traxion can be tricky to release once you have fallen on it or weighted it heavily.

Aside from that making sure the progress device is oriented upward by clipping it to a chest harness or a sling as shown in the climbing article you link is crucial. This will keep progress clean and smooth and reduce the distance you fall before it locks up. If money isn't an issue get a chest harness for this it works better than 2 slings or a piece of cord around your neck.

R M -
- I'm in WA.

Todd K -
- This project is vertical if not slightly inclined, but my next project will likely be overhanging so I'll bear your tip in mind.

DRusso -
- One of the main reasons I want two lines coming down is to assist with getting onto rappel on one of the lines in one if these instances. With two lines and a progress capture on each, I figure I could weight one rope on my primary (higher) progress capture, remove my secondary progress capture from the second rope, set up my atc and prussik on that line, weight the prussik and remove the primary progress capture from the main line, then bail.
- Also as I said in my OP I intend to use the method described in the article, so will be using the two slings and cord to keep the primary progress capture device high up.

All up it sounds like no one has any "you're going to die" concerns about the basic rope set up at the top though, that is:
- rap from back rings
- bunny ear the two strands to the face rings independently (with lockers)

Will have my first proper practice run on low/easy terrain on Saturday so will report back!

Don't forget a phone in a secured pocket where you can reach it and let people know where you are. No reason for a top rope epic. Have fun, something very cerebral about toprope soloing by yourself.

if you can reach the lower ring bolts from the top of the cliff, just use a pre-tied quad or equalette with 2 lockers and tie the middle of the rope off to the two lockers with two, preferably different, knots (ie clove, fig 8 on a bight, alpine butterfly, etc). This is for redundancy in case you incorrectly tie one of the knots then set up for rap device and slowly let your weight onto the rope.

Jake Jones wrote: I disagree. I've worked several projects that were "hard" for me on solo top rope. I've head pointed on TR solo to figure out small, run out gear- mentally difficult. I've worked routes on TR solo that I needed to memorize a very small, precise and technical crux. I did this with a Basic at my chest and trailing a Cinch on a short sling. Two separate lines, both fixed at the top, both weighted at the bottom. Rope feeds seamlessly through both devices. You're backed up. If you want to re-work a section, move the Cinch up, engage it, weight it, disengage the teeth on your other device, quickly rap down, re-engage, and work. I see no reason why this would be a waste of time. It's quite the opposite. The waste of time is trying to recruit a belay slave willing to sit there for hours while you thrutch around on something you're not strong enough to climb yet, or too scared to lead. Of course, there are a myriad of ways to TR solo. I prefer this method for the reasons stated. The only type of route this really is no good for is overhanging or traversing routes. But for vertical, slabby, or slightly overhanging routes that are more or less plumb, it is an invaluable tool. My $.02.

The rope feeds smoothly through your Cinch and you never have to pull out slack? Maybe I need to swap out my GriGri for a Cinch on the backup line when soloing

Brian morin wrote: The rope feeds smoothly through your Cinch and you never have to pull out slack? Maybe I need to swap out my GriGri for a Cinch on the backup line when soloing

IME rope rarely self-feeds through a Grigri, no matter how much weight I put on the bottom of the rope. By all means, if you're going to get a new device specifically for TR solo, get something with a "straight through" rope path, like the Petzl Basic mentioned up-thread. There's one FS in the forum currently for $40. Then use the Grigri on the second strand as your back up if you want.

Gunkiemike wrote: IME rope rarely self-feeds through a Grigri, no matter how much weight I put on the bottom of the rope. By all means, if you're going to get a new device specifically for TR solo, get something with a "straight through" rope path, like the Petzl Basic mentioned up-thread. There's one FS in the forum currently for $40. Then use the Grigri on the second strand as your back up if you want.

I actually already use a Croll as primary and micro traxion as backup on the same line. However, connecting the grigri to the other line and escaping both ascenders takes a little time. It's not like I can quickly and easily redo certain sections over and over

Jake's setup seems to be very efficient for doing that. I didn't know the Cinch self feeds.

just as a note the cinch is NOT a hands free device ... and when the illustrious malcolm was still head of trango he specifically said no no to soloing with the cinch

if you do use one make sure to check the internal pin for wear ... theres been a failure or two due to it

;)

This is the setup I use for toprope soloing with a petzl basic and microcender.

I tie the rope to the anchors in the middle of the rope with two strands draped down the climb. If the climb is longer than half my rope length I will go single strand if I feel there is no chance the rope will be severed or an extremely low chance that I will fall.

I have a loop of bungee cord material I can put over my head and attach to the basic if I want to keep it up but usually I prefer not to. I only fall a few more inches without the basic ascender being held up and I can climb much more freely without inadvertently weighting the rope.

I've fallen all over this the place with this system and because of the two strands and devices it's redundant and also easy and quick to escape and rappel down. Somtimes if I can get both hands free I will tie a backup knot in one of the strands intended for a device to jam on in the event of a failure.

It only takes a few lbs on the ends of the ropes to feed smoothly, I usually just hang my quickdraws and backpack on the ends of the ropes. Looks like this:



Alot of times I will have to stick clip up sport routes from the base while self belaying in order to set up a toprope. This is more tedious and to do it with utmost safety is complicated and you should really know what you're doing.

If you plan to rappel off the anchors when you are done climbing and they are closed link anchors, like chains or shuts, you will save some time and effort if you thread the anchors and pull the rope through to the middle before you tie your knots in the middle when you are setting up.

JKzxcv wrote:Alot of times I will have to stick clip up sport routes from the base while self belaying in order to set up a toprope. This is more tedious and to do it with utmost safety is complicated and you should really know what you're doing.

If you're going bolt-to-bolt up a sport route, you're really better off with a proper LEAD self-belay set-up (Soloist, Silent Partner or the like). If you are merely "stick aiding" up the pitch, you are POSSIBLY (depending on how you're doing it... and I don't pretend to know your exact scheme) at risk if a bolt breaks. A climber died not that long ago in Qwens Gorge (IIRC) doing this.

Good advice, yes, u do recall right. To stick clip up a sport route safely (for starters, nor do I pretend to know ppls set ups) one should have a ground anchor for the upward pull and "lead" the pitch "properly".

Yeah I do use a proper self belay set up suitable for leading, and I make sure I have multiple bolts keeping me off the ground at all times.

Only time it doesn't really work is when the bolts are very far apart.

I never understood how the two rope system can in to play for top rope soloing. One single line down from the anchors,(cut a 70 meter rope in half and just use one strand this cuts about 7 lbs from your pack weight too) one solo device, and tie back up knot in your line as you go. The knots will not go through your device. ( I tie overhands on a bight one handed with either hand and then put a carbiner in the loop for giggles. I do have "an oh shit kit" on my harness loops so if I do get into trouble which has happened before. Climbing an over hang and peeled off. Dangling in the air I had to figure something out. Good thing my chalk bag belt it a 5mm rope made a prussik and was able to unload my device and lower.