How do you learn to read sequences, not overgrip, and crimp efficiently?
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I've come to realize the above are 3 of my most detrimental weaknesses to getting better as a climber. My trad climbing skills have surpassed my sport climbing skills, and I now wish to again increase my sport climbing skills. I am a better trad climber because the movement and sequences are more intuitive to my learning style, and I am comfortable with the gear. |
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JeffL wrote:I've come to realize the above are 3 of my most detrimental weaknesses to getting better as a climber. My trad climbing skills have surpassed my sport climbing skills, and I now wish to again increase my sport climbing skills. I am a better trad climber because the movement and sequences are more intuitive to my learning style, and I am comfortable with the gear. My top redpoints on gear are 11c and 11d, but my top redpoints on sport are 11b. I can onsite 11a both sport and trad (not every 11a, but more than half), so there is clearly plenty of room for my redpointing ability to increase. I have redpointed 11d/12a in the gym, but those routes played directly towards my strengths and I feel those routes were soft. If you put me on crimps or technical footwork, 11b has been a very difficult grade. When I am working 11b/c I get tunnel vision and don't know what is ahead, or where the next hold is until I'm reaching for it. I must be overgripping also. I am learning to keep my breathing under control, as well as tactics/strategies on finding rests. What else can I do to improve on reading sequences, overgripping, crimping, and techy footwork?For pretty much everything you mentioned, about the only thing you can do to improve is get more mileage and practice. If you're not good at techy/crimpy routes, then get on more of them. Obviously you could also train crimp strength which could help a bit with the overgripping problem, but from your post it sounds like you just need to get on more routes that you are uncomfortable with. |
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I've never really noticed whether I unnecessarily overgrip the bottom hold, but after reading this article today, might start paying more attention. |
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Deliberate practice. |
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It does seem strange that you can onsight 11a more than half of the time, yet can only redpoint 11b. My experience is that my redpoint level is about 4 grades higher than my onsight level, which means if I'm consistently onsighting 11a's, I'm able to repoint 12a's fairly consistently as well. |
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I think lots of 30 min workouts (staying on a wall for 30 without coming off or getting pumped while climbing as smoothly and efficiently as possible, gradually using smaller holds (feet especially) and harder sequences as you get used to it) and making sure your breathing is nice and deep and even should help. |
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Just check the beta on mountain project and the comments for whatever your proj is, It's by far the best resource. |
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aikibujin wrote:It does seem strange that you can onsight 11a more than half of the time, yet can only redpoint 11b.Thanks for the response. My attitude towards climbing is geared towards adventure, so onsighting is my number one priority, and 'projecting' a route is much lower. My hope is that increasing my redpointing ability will help my onsighting ability, that is what I really and truly care about. Adventure first, speed second, style third. My favorite things right now are multipitching, onsighting, and simulclimbing. When I can put all three together, I hit the maximum returns and pleasure that climbing has ever given me. |
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For me at least, I think over-gripping has a lot to do with not trusting my feet. Yes, your body is very good at knowing subconsciously how much force is needed to hold on. But it's also very good at predicting how much force would be needed to recover if the left foot slipped right now. And my instinct is often to provide that extra "margin of error" grip. I really notice this when making a strenuous placement or clip. Once I've made the clip I relax and, oh yeah, those feet are totally fine, I didn't have to be gripping so hard. |
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I am in the same boat as you are JeffL. |
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Reading sequences and onsighting are one in the same. You're saying that this is your strength but also one of your biggest weaknesses? I think you are complicating things for yourself. "Crimps and technical footwork" have nothing to do with sport or trad, they exist in both styles. If you want to get better at this style, climb more routes in this style. |
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I'm going to lump grip and footwork into the same paragraph and follow up with my thoughts on sequence finding. |
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Re: overgripping, for me it's more often about slight adjustments to stance/body position to be able to rest better and loosen the grip, than the overgripping itself. |