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Routes in Heartbreaker
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Heartbreaker T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Surfing the Orgasmic Wave S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Reid Dowdle 1984 |
| Page Views: | 3,298 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Jun 25, 2007 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Heartbreaker is a classic line, which does not see a lot of traffic due to its location. The next time you are at Boxtop or The Odyssey, you should stop and check out this beauty. It is one of the better 5.10 trad lines at the City.
Follow the thin leaning hand crack to the crux move entering the dihedral. The crack above eases to easy 5.10 with good jams and gear. Save at least one #2 camalot for the anchor, which is hand size gear.
Follow the thin leaning hand crack to the crux move entering the dihedral. The crack above eases to easy 5.10 with good jams and gear. Save at least one #2 camalot for the anchor, which is hand size gear.
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