Why cant I find the right shoe?

The tarantulas don't fit well on me, but some of the higher end sportivas do, like the katana lace (very different shoe from katana Velcro).

Just because a lower end shoe last from one company doesn't fit well doesn't mean all the lasts won't work. Go to a store with many different shoes, try all all in several sizes, then don't buy any, and think about it. Make sure you've tried several different lasts from three or four manufacturers, like 5.10 sportiva, scarpa, evolve, etc.

But be patient, it took me a long time to find the right shoes.

adrianna melody wrote:... So what do i do? How can i make sure i get the right shoe? Im sure we all could agree nobody wants to spent $100 on a shoe that may not be right for them..

I've always worn shoes comfortable enough that I can walk around most of the day with them on, yet still snug enough not to slip. This way, I have always enjoyed the climbing.

When I found my foot bending off an edge that my partner could stand on, I decided to strengthen my big toes. Doing that is more fun than agonizing over which shoe to buy. And I'd rather be comfortable and standing on my feet than cringing each time I weigh my foot. You can even find a challenge climbing barefoot. Do what you're comfortable with and be wary of 'experts'.

txclimber wrote:Get a pair of mythos. They fit any shape foot. Get them snug, but not stupid tight. They'll stretch to fit. Some folks will give you the whole, "Well they're not really a performance shoe, blah, blah". Nonsense. I've climbed everything from steep 5.12 sport routes with dime edges to Indian Creek splitters in them. From slabs, to cracks, to overhanging sport, you won't find a better "do it all shoe". I assure you my shoes are not the reason I'm not sending 5.14. Their lacing design and leather uppers (stretch to fit) make them work for any feet, and super comfortable.

The #1 shoe fallacy right there. I have a pair of Mythos and they do not fit my foot well.

Don't take brand/model-specific shoe advice from anyone unless they tell you their foot shape.

To OP, this blog post about rock climbing shoes and feet is a good read. It's conclusion:

"The main take home message is that with footwear, pain is insane! here possible, make your climbing shoes fit properly, feel comfortable, and look after your feet!"

http://thomasbondphysio.blogspot.com/2013/08/feet-and-rock-climbing.html

I am Jack's complete lack of surprise a woman was unable to find the "right" shoe.

Colonel Mustard wrote:I am Jack's complete lack of surprise a woman was unable to find the "right" shoe.

I am Jack's cold sweat, caused by thinking about how jacked up her feet are.

Keep in mind not just fit but the type of climbing you are doing. Steep? Slab? Single pitch or all day?

I currently boulder(indoor and outdoor) and do some top rope in the gym

Im usually not a picky "shoe" person but i really want to make sure im climbing in the right shoe so i can climb efficiently

Sounds like you are just in the wrong type of shoe or sizing that style wrong. Those are a flat last not meant to bind the toes. Your toes should touch but they shouldn't curl in that style shoe. The toe boxes were not meant for that. Go for a half size up and that should help or find a slightly aggressive shoe that has a larger volume toe box. Also those look into an asymmetrical toe box. Both of those are symmetrical. That could also help

Professor Plum in the toilet with the RIGHT SHOE!

Come to the NRG and go straight to WaterStone Outdoors. They have the largest selection of shoes and there's always someone there that's been climbing for over 10 years. They won't lead you astray and will actually care about getting you the right fit.

adrianna melody wrote:I have a wider forfoot and a narrow heel..and i think thats where im having my fitment issue :-\

This describes my foot to a T. This is my shoe quiver:

For all day trad: 5.10 Sirens
For a little more performance: Scarpa Instinct VS
For destroying your shoes doing hundreds of laps at the gym: 5.10 Anasazi high tops

I have tried a ton of shoes. No La Sportivas fit me as it pinches my forefoot or my heel lifts and squelches around or both. The heels on Evolvs are also too big for me. They never feel like they are snug. It was a long process for me to find shoes I liked. I did a lot of demo days at the gym and at crag events. If you get the opportunity to do something like that, it's the best way to judge a shoe, climb in them for a day.

adrianna melody wrote: Keep in mind not just fit but the type of climbing you are doing. Steep? Slab? Single pitch or all day? I currently boulder(indoor and outdoor) and do some top rope in the gym Im usually not a picky "shoe" person but i really want to make sure im climbing in the right shoe so i can climb efficiently

You just started climbing right? Get a flat and fairly stiff soled shoe that fits snuggly but not uncomfortably. Once you get to a point with your footwork where you're noticing true shorcoming with your footwear, then start looking at other options. The truth is, you probably don't know your feet well enough right now to be picking "high performance" shoes. But by the time you've worn down a pair of comfortable flat soled shoes, you'll have a good idea of how you want the next pair to fit.

I have a really hard time finding shoes that fit good as well. What I have found is that shoes with laces and leather uppers are the way to go for me. Laces offer more of a custom fit when tightening, and the leather uppers stretch and form to your foot over time as you wear them.

Try on potential shoes later on in the day...feet swell slightly and flatten out after being out of bed for several hours and even more so after exercising or working on your feet all day....+1 on getting laces instead of velcro...for me, I get a better fit throughout the arches...

Colonel Mustard wrote:I am Jack's complete lack of surprise a woman was unable to find the "right" shoe.

I am Jack's abiding distaste for stupid sexist stereotypes.

I am Jack's confused and tired of this thread. Who needs shoes? Clime nekked...

Muscrat wrote:I am Jack's confused and tired of this thread. Who needs shoes? Clime nekked...

Speaking of....

dreamingofgnar.com/2015/04/…

037200b.netsolhost.com/blog…

found em!
i picked up a pare of Scarpa Vapor V's and immediately headed to the rockhouse for some bouldering. they are SUPER sticky, and held on small foot holds super well..infact..i didnt have not one "slip" yesterday. I like these!

WyomingSummits wrote: A friction/slab shoe isn't going to climb cracks well, etc.

Someone needs to tell this to my mocc's, i don't think they knew....