Toprope on Edge of Time

I am thinking about toproping this route. Might lead it but think I might TR it first

What is the best way to set up a toprope on this route? Are there chains on the upper face or will I need slings from bolts on top?

Scramble/ climb to the top of the formation via the gully to the left of the route. Always use slings and your own biners to reduce wear on existing hardware please.

Eric

Eric Bratschun wrote:Scramble/ climb to the top of the formation via the gully to the left of the route. Always use slings and your own biners to reduce wear on existing hardware please. Eric

Thanks. I always use slings and biners to TR. Just didn't know if the anchors are out on the face or up on top somewhere. I'll take some long slings but was hoping to rap down and TR from anchors on route but don't know what is available. I was told that the bolts are on the flat summit and some distance away from the climb, so I guess I need long slings probably

You know its been awhile since I've been up there, I know thre has been some hardware moving around up there/ chains being taken and replaced. From what I remember, the bolts were situated pretty close to the lip, but if you heard otherwise, I would go with that information. I know there are bolts in the middle of the top of the formation, and you may be more comfortable roping up to access the Edge of Time bolts and anchoring from those.

Eric Bratschun wrote:You know its been awhile since I've been up there, I know thre has been some hardware moving around up there/ chains being taken and replaced. From what I remember, the bolts were situated pretty close to the lip, but if you heard otherwise, I would go with that information. I know there are bolts in the middle of the top of the formation, and you may be more comfortable roping up to access the Edge of Time bolts and anchoring from those.

Thanks. Guess I will just take lots of slings and figure it out when I get up there. Appreciate the input.

The routes to the left are considerably easier and are decent warmups if you are comfortable at 5.8.

I agree that the edge of time is a pretty heady onsight. You can get a blue TCU before the second bolt which helps with the ground-fall nature of the crux.

-chris

Have fun!

percious wrote:The routes to the left are considerably easier and are decent warmups if you are comfortable at 5.8. I agree that the edge of time is a pretty heady onsight. You can get a blue TCU before the second bolt which helps with the ground-fall nature of the crux. -chris

Thanks.
I'm always a little uneasy when a route consistenly gets described as having "groundfall potential". I'm getting too old to break things....
I'll take a blue TCU along in case I lead it.

Was up there earlier this week, the piton clip seems height dependent. I'm 5'9" and was able to do it without too committing of a move, but my partner was significantly shorter and wasn't willing to do it. Bring the right head though, looking down at the fall and distance to the previous bolt is sobering.

As for the anchor, the bolts are pretty far back, but there are long chains to get over the edge. No special gear required - except maybe lockers that aren't excessively fat.

The chains get close to the lip, but if you extend them a little you can get your masterpoint over the lip and into free space.

percious wrote:I agree that the edge of time is a pretty heady onsight. You can get a blue TCU before the second bolt which helps with the ground-fall nature of the crux. -chris

That's probably not a bad idea. I was pretty sure I could do the crux, but then I turned around and saw the dead tree trunk that was perfectly angled to literally spear me if I fell off, and lost my lead head.

(The rest was fine)