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Why cant I find the right shoe?

Original Post
adrianna melody · · Hopatcong, NJ · Joined May 2015 · Points: 45

Am I Stupid?
At first I bought a pair of La Sportiva Tarantulaces. They had my toes at a slight bed and snug at the toe but had lots of air around the width of my feet. When i mentioned someone regarding fit they suggested a different shoe or smaller size.. I had exchanged them for a pair of womens 5.10 Roges which initially i liked. My feet were crammed in them. The guy at the store said "if they arnt comfortable they are the right fit" They werent painful, but they were tight, far from any comfort level. I headed to the gym and about 5 problems in..i thought i had broken my big toes (no exaggeration) and left the tops of my big toes black and blue..So when i expressed this to the guy at the store when i headed back he put me in the same size 5.10 mens..they felt..OK in the store..a little tight..a little air..but as soon as i did my first climb with them..i knew there was a problem..since there was still room in the shoe my foot was slipping off smaller holds and bending at the front of the shoe.
So what do i do?
How can i make sure i get the right shoe? Im sure we all could agree nobody wants to spent $100 on a shoe that may not be right for them..

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

That sounds familiar :)
My wife has long narrow feet, finding shoes that fit is a challenge.
Climbing shoes are made on a last, the model of some foot. What is important to know is that different manufacturers are usually using different lasts. So, if one manufacturer's shoe doesn't quite fit, try a different one. Also, some shoes, namely the ones with leather uppers, are more likely to adjust to your foot than others.
So far you ticked off LaSportiva, 5.10. Try others - Evolv, MadRock, whatever.

I'd would start with Evolv, their cheapest model, Elektra, is decent and cheap enough, provided it fits.

adrianna melody · · Hopatcong, NJ · Joined May 2015 · Points: 45

Ill try them when i go.. I totally get they arnt supposed to be comfortable..but i didnt think it was supposed to make me writh in pain

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71

I do not know were the shoes have to hurt philosophy came from but having owned 20+ pairs of shoes in the last few years I can tell you that it's total BS. Shoes should be snug but not overtight and they should conform more or less to the shape of your foot. If you have a high arch a stiff board lasted shoe is going to hurt. If you have flat feet an aggressive downturned/canted shoe is also going to hurt. Any shoe that bends your big toe is going to hurt...

abandonedaccount1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 5

The answer is always Dragons.

WyomingSummits · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

I climb some decent grades and my shoes are comfy. The sales guy just didn't want to spend the time to get a good fit. Make sure you're getting the right shoe for the type of climbing you're doing. A friction/slab shoe isn't going to climb cracks well, etc.

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
WyomingSummits wrote:...A friction/slab shoe isn't going to climb cracks well, etc.
No but a performance oriented trad shoe will edge like a dream...if you can only have one pair of shoes I'd go for a high performance trad shoe.
The Fat Kid · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 10

You need to determine the shape of your foot, and then look for a shoe.

I have a wide forefoot and narrow heel. Sportivas never fit me well, but Scarpa Instincts fit like a glove.

My wife has tiny (size 4.5), narrow, flat feet. She tried numerous brands and finally found Evlov Shaman LVs (size 5), which fit her really well.

You can order a few pairs from Backcountry and then keep the pair that fit best.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
gription wrote:I do not know were the shoes have to hurt philosophy came from ...
I've always blamed it on ignorant salespeople. 20somethings who climb hard for less than 20 feet at a time, if you want to get more specific.

Obviously that's a big generalization, and one that is not at all fair to the folks who do a good job matching climbers with the most appropriate shoes.

Also know this - the "tighter is better" BS has been around at least 30 years.
Altered Ego · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 0

"Asking questions is what brains were born to do, at least when we were young children. For young children, quite literally, seeking explanations is as deeply rooted a drive as seeking food or water."

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Long Duk Dong wrote:"Asking questions is what brains were born to do, at least when we were young children. For young children, quite literally, seeking explanations is as deeply rooted a drive as seeking food or water."
That is deep. Not sure how it's relevant to this discussion, but your quote will change my life, no doubt. :)
adrianna melody · · Hopatcong, NJ · Joined May 2015 · Points: 45

I have a wider forfoot and a narrow heel..and i think thats where im having my fitment issue :-\

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385
gription wrote:I do not know were the shoes have to hurt philosophy came from...
I always heard it came from before the commercial climbing shoe came on the market some people wore tennis shoes and the thought was to have them a size smaller than your walking around shoes. This was to keep your foot from shifting while on an edge or smearing. Same thing as keeping the laces tight.

At least this is what I heard the reasoning was.
txclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

Get a pair of mythos. They fit any shape foot. Get them snug, but not stupid tight. They'll stretch to fit.

Some folks will give you the whole, "Well they're not really a performance shoe, blah, blah". Nonsense. I've climbed everything from steep 5.12 sport routes with dime edges to Indian Creek splitters in them. From slabs, to cracks, to overhanging sport, you won't find a better "do it all shoe".

I assure you my shoes are not the reason I'm not sending 5.14.

Their lacing design and leather uppers (stretch to fit) make them work for any feet, and super comfortable.

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

Try everything you can and in a few different sizes. If they have a wall to test shoes, use it. Take note. Wear them for at least a few minutes if not more. Pay attention to the little details. Don't look at them to see how they fit, feel the fit with your feet.

Narrow heals are tricky. My S.O. likes her 5.10 Guides.

Edited to say: The Mythos may be a great shoe, but they don't fit *all* feet well. I keep trying them, wishing they would, but so far I just find discomfort, pain, or too much dead space.

Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

I have a wide forefoot and low volume heel and Evolv Shaman's fit my foot really well and don't have to be sized uncomfortably tight to climb well. Not sure how the women's version is but the men's is great.

LindsayH · · Kingston, NY · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 55
Mathias wrote:Try everything you can and in a few different sizes. If they have a wall to test shoes, use it. Take note. Wear them for at least a few minutes if not more. Pay attention to the little details. Don't look at them to see how they fit, feel the fit with your feet. Narrow heals are tricky. My S.O. likes her 5.10 Guides.
This.

Also, tell the salesperson what you primarily climb (they'll likely recommend different shoes for bouldering vs. trad), how hard you climb (if you're just getting started you probably don't need the super aggressive downturned shoes yet), and how often/long (all day comfort vs. a couple of hours in the gym, for example).

Last time I bought shoes I probably tried on 4 or 5 different kinds in at least 3 different sizes each before I landed on the Scarpa Techno X.
johnnyrig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 105

My wife has a wide toe-box and narrow heel. She likes her 5.10 coyotes. They might not fit you for squat.

Here's another vote for trying on a bunch of different shoes. I don't think any of them are going to be comfortable for walking around a store in; but they shouldn't hurt. Best to wear them for a little while, as said before. See if you can pull off some kind of climbing moves to try em out.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

It's next to the left?

Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245
adrianna melody wrote:So what do i do? How can i make sure i get the right shoe?
I would take extra care to observe how you found your left shoe, what you do to keep track of it, etc., then apply that to the right shoe. Good luck!

edit; muscrat beat me to it.
Hans Bauck · · Squamish, BC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 2,099
txclimber wrote:Get a pair of mythos. They fit any shape foot.
I have a wide forefoot and a narrow heel, and Mythos most definitely do not fit me.

Andrewww wrote:I have a wide forefoot and low volume heel and Evolv Shaman's fit my foot really well and don't have to be sized uncomfortably tight to climb well.
These fit me ok too.

The Fat Kid wrote:I have a wide forefoot and narrow heel. Sportivas never fit me well, but Scarpa Instincts fit like a glove.
Me too. Love these shoes for bouldering. I'm using the VS version.

For less steep routes or all day stuff I like TC Pro's a LOT, though it takes them a while to break in. I use these for pretty much anything except bouldering or steep sport climbing. Muira lace ups are pretty good too.

Keep in mind not just fit but the type of climbing you are doing. Steep? Slab? Single pitch or all day?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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