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Routes in Prusik Peak
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Alpine Cragger's Delight T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beckey-Davis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Der Sportsman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Prayer for a Friend T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Solid Gold T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stanley-Burgner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Taylor-Wood Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 650 ft (197 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Fred Beckey, Dan Davis (1962) |
| Page Views: | 15,996 total · 122/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Nash on Jul 6, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
The original line up the striking south face of Prusik Peak.
Pitch 1: Climb up the chimney located left of two prominent Vs on the south face. At the top of the chimney move left and climb up on knobs to a belay. 5.7
Pitch 2&3: Climb rightward up steep slab and ascend a long chimney gully until you reach a large ledge (Snafflehound ledge) 5.7
Pitch 4: Traverse right on the ledge to a small tree and then up a short steep step to the base of the crux. 5.5
Pitch 5: Climb a shallow dihedral. You will be forced to the right, until an overhang forces you to make a step-across to the left into a flaring jam crack climbing this over a buldge. Above the buldge the climbing eases off on face holds and chicken heads. Belay at next ledge. 5.9
Pitch 6: Continue up the crack system (steep gully) bypassing a chockstone on the left to the small notch east of the summit horn 5.8
Pitch 7A: From the notch, descend a few feet on the north side and step right onto a small ramp. Ascend ramp and cross a delicate friction traverse ending in a corner. Ascend a good jam crack to the summit. 5.8
Pitch 7B: From the notch, ascend left up the obvious crack on the wall leading to the summit. 5.10
Descent:
From the summit, descend the North face rap route, marked by a bolt and tat from the summit. Can be done with a single 60m rope
Pitch 1: Climb up the chimney located left of two prominent Vs on the south face. At the top of the chimney move left and climb up on knobs to a belay. 5.7
Pitch 2&3: Climb rightward up steep slab and ascend a long chimney gully until you reach a large ledge (Snafflehound ledge) 5.7
Pitch 4: Traverse right on the ledge to a small tree and then up a short steep step to the base of the crux. 5.5
Pitch 5: Climb a shallow dihedral. You will be forced to the right, until an overhang forces you to make a step-across to the left into a flaring jam crack climbing this over a buldge. Above the buldge the climbing eases off on face holds and chicken heads. Belay at next ledge. 5.9
Pitch 6: Continue up the crack system (steep gully) bypassing a chockstone on the left to the small notch east of the summit horn 5.8
Pitch 7A: From the notch, descend a few feet on the north side and step right onto a small ramp. Ascend ramp and cross a delicate friction traverse ending in a corner. Ascend a good jam crack to the summit. 5.8
Pitch 7B: From the notch, ascend left up the obvious crack on the wall leading to the summit. 5.10
Descent:
From the summit, descend the North face rap route, marked by a bolt and tat from the summit. Can be done with a single 60m rope
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