Northeast ridge of the pinnacle

I'm hoping to climb either this or Henderson Ridge in a few weeks. I've climbed Henderson last summer and felt it was VERY easy and so not as interesting as I was hoping. My concern with the Northeast Ridge is that it may be a bit beyond my ability. I've led 5.6 trad at Bolton and 5.8 sport at Rumney. I've read that if you traverse left on the Pinnacle climb you can bypass anything that looks too challenging. Is this a fair assessment? I will be leading all the pitches for this climb so I'm looking to see if it is a true 5.7/5.8 climb and if it is, I probably should wait another season. As a point of reference, I followed Whitney Gilman last summer and I know I'm not ready to lead that climb yet. Thoughts? Any advice would be appreciated.

I climbed the Northeast Ridge of the pinnacle last summer.

The 5.8 section is a pretty short but old-school 5.8 corner. It is maybe 15 feet long or so and has a ton of old pitons to supplement gear (if you trust 'em), but it will feel harder than a Rumney 5.8. Gear management to avoid rope drag is also key. If you wouldn't feel comfortable leading Whitney Gilman, then the 5.8 section may be tough for you...but it is short, and you could aid it!

I did not do the easier variations, but from the top of the P3 belay, the downclimb to the chimney was not terribly obvious to me (though the chimney is right next to where you belay). I would definitely look into this more if you are concerned about routefinding.

If you can get on the Fairy Tale traverse (hard to spot as you are climbing, it occurs as a variation to P5 I believe) I highly recommend it.

In general the rock on the Pinnacle is blocky, stepped, and broken, so if you don't like the line you are on, opportunities to traverse to a different one are frequent. You can really choose your own adventure.

This is easier than Whitey-G, but totally different. I have set myself up for wicked rope drag, more than once here. I think that counting on going left at hard parts is a super bad idea, think loose rock and hobble bush and getting lost (I have never tried this, to be fair). There is plenty of good gear to be had, the pitons are dubious at best. Being totally solid with rapping off is mandatory. It's a cool climb, but not a good place to learn the hard way. Have fun.

Sounds like I may climb Henderson again and focus on increased efficiency/rope work/etc. since my partner is someone who climbs a couple times a year. Maybe I'll save this ridge climb for when I can find an experienced partner at least on the same level as myself. Anybody interested?

What 5.6 did you lead at Bolton?? Agreed with M Bageant that there is one old school section of 5.8, and its pretty greasy....I certainly almost fell on it. Also you'll want to do the Fairytale traverse to finish which could be super intimidating for a beginning leader. Having said all that you can definitely bypass stuff, its a great route!

You should definitely do the Pinnacle. I found it rather easy (boring as a matter of fact). I am a 5.7 trad climber and did not find much that was 5.7 other than a move or two. And for the chimney entry, which is pretty tricky, you can go around to the left. All the harder 5.8 variations are avoidable completely. Just go up there and find the easiest way to the top and you will be fine. This route will improve your route-finding, rope management skills, and confidence. There is nothing to be intimidated by. Even the Fairytale section at the end is pretty easy.

Whitney Gilman is a much headier climb, I think.

Nick, I led "in the pines" and "a-sharp."

Thanks for all the feedback. I feel ready to head up for this climb, the question becomes am I ready to lead up an inexperienced climber? If the weather is a bluedbird day, probably. If the weather turned bad, it could be nasty trying to either continue climbing in the rain or rap off making sure nobody gets hurt. Food for thought. I'm planning on going to do either this or Henderson again in about 3 weeks. Can't wait!