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Long, moderate trad route near Boulder?

Original Post
Ryan Robison 1982 · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 55

Anyone have some suggestions for a 3-6+ pitch trad routes fairly close to Boulder in the 5.4-5.6 range? I've taken some newbs to Wind Tower and the Flatirons a few times before and am looking for some different routes/areas, super moderates, and the possibility of bailing would be a nice addition. Think date climb for an athletic newbie with some gym experience!

I had considered Batman and Robin at Lumpy and am waiting until August to take this group up the Third Flatiron if that gives some ideas about the grades and routes in mind. I also have a few friends that are new to climbing, really enjoy following some long easy trad climbs, and I just really like introducing people to the sport!

I know this is Boulder and there's great stuff everywhere, but I'm mostly looking for what others have enjoyed in this area that may or may not be a "classic" which I've overlooked.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41

Icarus?

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Angels way in the Flatirons comes to mind. Easy to bail, 1200' long, 5.0 to 5.4 depending on which exact way you choose.. I recall having a great time on this climb, and it is something different!

Another good climb, that is 5.7 though… 2 pitch, is on Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon. Cussin' Crack
(It says 3 pitches, but can be done however you want…)

Empor 5.7, Cob Rock, Boulder Canyon

Then in Eldo you got:
Calypso 5.6 3 pitch (to the summit)
Bastille 5.7
Rewritten 5.7 (MP says 6 pitch)

Hopefully this helps give more ideas for low key adventures!

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

The Redguarden route in Eldo too!

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

You may have done this more time than me and have had better experience but I don't think Batman and Robin is a good "date" climb.

Angel's Way is a good suggestion but I think it is closed for Raptors. Stairway to heaven has a lot of pitches and you can bail. FatIron might work too if it is open. I think Seal Rock would be awesome but of course the Rappel would ensure you never get a second date. There is an alternative single rope rap down off of seal rock if you do some scrambling South so I have read, never found it myself.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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