I'm heading to Rumney end of July for a long weekend. High jacking this thread to ask about sport under 5.10. Planning on warming up and getting the feel for the rock on some 5.easy routes. I'd like to step up into the harder lines gradually while there. Any recommendations for 5.6 - 5.9 routes that will make me confident prior to hitting a nice list of 10s (which I've derived from previous posts on this thread)? I want to play it safe for my first sport climbing outing, plus I have some new leaders who would love to lead some good sport pitches in the 5.5 - 5.7 range.
Parking lot would be a good option if the routes weren't always taken. There are a few 7''s and some routes that are easier. Also 5.8 crag would be a decent option but once again it's so close to the road that there are normally decent crowds.
If you start at Jimmy Cliff you can do the hike during the coolest part of the day, start with a 2 pitch 5.3 to get a feel for the rock and great views, then climb lines b/w 5.7-5.9, then try for Lonesome Dove 5.10a all at the same area of the cliff.
Shaelyn's way on the parking lot wall is the most fun I've ever had on a single pitch, sport 7. Long and varied. If it's mobbed, where the wild things are is also super fun. longest approach of anything in Rummey though, which is what makes it good for crowded days. Rock du juor is also good if you do pitch 2.
Ryan M Moore wrote:Shaelyn's way on the parking lot wall is the most fun I've ever had on a single pitch, sport 7. Long and varied. If it's mobbed, where the wild things are is also super fun. longest approach of anything in Rummey though, which is what makes it good for crowded days. Rock du juor is also good if you do pitch 2.
'Where the Wild Things Are' is at the Summit Cliff, which is closed for the peregrines atm (prob until Aug 1)
Clipity and Lady on the Jimmy Cliff slabs as mentioned. Two pitch sport slab clip ups. The three climbs around the corner to the right (check here at MP).
Not gonna look here for the actual areas unless I can remember (lazy tonight) as I know where I'm going when I walk to them but:
- rack for sale - Shaelyn's (as mentioned) - parking lot - Chloe's breakfast special - parking lot - Dead Sea equestrian - parking lot - the others mentioned on parking lot wall - metamorphosis - main wall left - toxic gumbo - main wall left - 1st pitch big easy - mail wall left - cold feet - truth in advertising
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