So, are the Gunks as sandbagged as everyone says they are?

I've only ever been climbing outside at the gunks but this summer I'm going to Boulder (Eldo) and I'm not sure what to expect or what grade I'd most likely be on.

Nah, just more intimidating because it's steeper than most areas. Coming from Eldo, you'll have no problem acclimating.

I wouldn't worry about it too much. From my limited time in the Gunks and lots of time in Eldo, the grades are similar. The style was a bit different, though. At a given grade, the Gunks are steeper with bigger holds and maybe a bit more strenuous, Eldo, smaller holds, a bit more technical. I didn't find gear placements difficult at the gunks either after many years in Eldo.

Summer climbing in Eldo can require a bit of strategy if the temps are going to be hot.

I learned to climb in the Gunks so that's my baseline for climbing grades, and to me Eldo feels right on track. Still, anytime you climb on different rock or in a different style, it's wise to drop a grade or two so you can get a feel for it well within your comfort zone, then go from there.

If you're used to climbing trad outside, you'll be fine.

If you're used to climbing gym routes, it'll be a rude awaking. A fun one, though.

Chris Duca wrote:Nah, just more intimidating because it's steeper than most areas. Coming from Eldo, you'll have no problem acclimating.

The OP is *going to* Eldo.
Yes, it's an odd and confusing thread title.

To the OP: look up some of the Eldo routes here on MP that you are interested in and see what the comments say. Sometimes that gives a better idea of the flavor of a route than the guidebook description.

By and large, Eldo climbing is more technical, Gunks are more thuggish, but both styles exist in both areas. One thing to watch out for in Eldo: the strata are tilted, and what a Gunks climber might think is a horizontal hold looking up can easily turn out to be a desperate sloping ramp.

rgold wrote:One thing to watch out for in Eldo: the strata are tilted, and what a Gunks climber might think is a horizontal hold looking up can easily turn out to be a desperate sloping ramp.

Once gave me an unexpected 25' dynamic retreat BITD!

From what y'all are saying it actually seems that Eldo will be better fitted to my strengths (less steep technical climbs and small holds) very excited to climb outside of NY, thanks for all the responses

I've climbed mostly in Vermont but with a fair amount of traffic in the Adirondacks and in New Hampshire. I don't think the gunks are sandbagged at all and would completely agree with Chris Duca. For the Northeast they are just intimidating. The moves themselves are totally comparable to the rest of the East.

If you're an experienced gunks leader you should be okay, but as in all places sage advice is to start a grade or two below normal. Having climbed both I'd say to expect the gear in Eldo to be a bit more finicky and the moves to be more tricky and way more sustained. None of this 100 foot of 5.6 to a single 5.10 move, I found the pitches to be pretty full value at the grades.

Also, definitely expect to be building gear anchors on the multipitch stuff, and have retreat plan for the storms on longer routes.

Have a blast, Eldo is a great spot

Meg Grega wrote:From what y'all are saying it actually seems that Eldo will be better fitted to my strengths (less steep technical climbs and small holds) very excited to climb outside of NY, thanks for all the responses

The West is full of this style, and cracks. Try to get on some sport out there too. Clear Creek is close to Boulder (just West of Denver, generally easy access, but crowded):

mountainproject.com/v/clear…

I've been out West as a climber many times now. The Gunks are the perfect training ground for other places. If you can climb confidently at the Gunks, at the same grades elsewhere you will generally be fine. Like with any new area, check out what the locals say on MP in the comments section.

Keep in mind the general absence of splitter cracks at the Gunks will likely leave you a bit bare in the crack climbing experience department. You may want to start off doing easier cracks to get the feel if you're not particularly good at them yet. I remember being grateful for my Adirondack climbing time when I was on a very nice but stout crack climb in Boulder canyon. Being able to securely lock off on a finger jam to place gear without shaking like a leaf makes climbing much more fun. (IMO)

rgold wrote:By and large, Eldo climbing is more technical, Gunks are more thuggish, but both styles exist in both areas. One thing to watch out for in Eldo: the strata are tilted, and what a Gunks climber might think is a horizontal hold looking up can easily turn out to be a desperate sloping ramp.

I agree! I was used to muscling my way through more than relying on technique the first time I went to Eldo (only my second season climbing). I felt like the grades were more challenging because of that. I also found placements to be a bit less obvious.

Kevin Heckeler wrote:Keep in mind the general absence of splitter cracks at the Gunks will likely leave you a bit bare in the crack climbing experience department. You may want to start off doing easier cracks to get the feel if you're not particularly good at them yet. I remember being grateful for my Adirondack climbing time when I was on a very nice but stout crack climb in Boulder canyon. Being able to securely lock off on a finger jam to place gear without shaking like a leaf makes climbing much more fun. (IMO)

+1
For me, finger and hand cracks came rather easily when I started climbing in the west (the big exception being 1-1/4 cracks, which require ring-locks for my finger size). It was the wider cracks - bigger than fist and up - and chimneys that caused the most problems. The first from lack of OW technique, the latter from fear of the sometimes massive run-outs. The first few times you encounter one, a Yosemite 5.9 chimney is a thugish intimidating beast and not to be taken lightly.

I climb mostly at the gunks.
I've never successfully followed or toproped an 11 at the gunks.
But I've lead a 5.12a sport at NRG and lead a bunch of 10's and 11's (sport) easily at Red Rocks and Rumney.
So there's that.
I think the grading comes more under control the more you climb at the gunks, you get used to what to expect and how to gain a stance. it's a whole lot less straight forward than anywhere else i've climbed.

I think the 5.4 - 5.6 range at the Gunks is harder than the norm. Then as you get into the upper ranges, the grade is on par with other places. You can jump on something 5.5 and think it will be so easy,but it can get ya! At places like Eldo, they really don;t even have anything less than 5.6 so it's sort of a moot point. But anyway.

There is no such thing as sandbagged, only old-school.

Em Cos wrote:I learned to climb in the Gunks so that's my baseline for climbing grades, and to me Eldo feels right on track. Still, anytime you climb on different rock or in a different style, it's wise to drop a grade or two so you can get a feel for it well within your comfort zone, then go from there.

Solid advice here and elsewhere on this thread, chris_vultaggio in particular is also spot on—I had the same experience (too) many years ago; climbed exclusively at the Gunks for years, then my first climbing trip outside of the North East was to Colorado. Leading the Bastille Crack was a dream come true—more like a 5.8 than a 5.7 BTW. Another point that I'd emphasize is brought up by rgold—the tilted strata of Eldo can make routes feel, and effectively be more sustained, because the rest spots aren't as obvious as the big horizontals at the Gunks.

Be safe, have a blast and don't forget to try other areas nearby like Lumpy Ridge.